Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

off the top of my head maybe $5000 buying parts retail??

Upgraded turbo ~$1500

Upgraded ECU maybe powerFC ~$1500

Bigger injectors & fuel pump ~$1000

extras like a boost controller and other little items + labour ~$1000

oh plus a tune

whats everyone else rekon?

I have a 1995 R33 RB25 and just recently reached 198.5kw on the dyno.

Car is running:

FMIC $1000

Full Exhaust System $1200

Apexi Pod Filter - Bought from Nengun for $50

Power FC - Bought from Nengun for $950 w/ hand controller

Exhaust Cam Gear - Bought from Nengun for $180

Splitfire Coils - Bought from Nengun for $450 (Don't think it makes much of a difference)

Turbotech Boost Controller - $30 (Bought from the SAU forums)

13 psi

So all up almost $4000 excl. a couple of tunes I've had and labour.

I got 200rwkw out of my rb20 spending a lot less than that.

Exhaust 3" turbo back $700

r33 turbo hiflowed $800

hybrid intercooler $200

Intercooler piping custom $220

ecu retune an ddyno time $300

boost controller turbotech $30

fuel pressure regulator $170

fuel pump $145

total $2565.

Everything was new except for the turbo. it was a secondhand hiflow. but I have seen decent new turbos for $1200 anyway so for less then $3000 you can have 200rwkw.

the big difference in the equation is the turbo... some seem to make the 200rwkw mark on the stock turbo... mine made 195rwkw but was running way to lean so it was bumped down to 187rwkw at a safe level on 12psi....

you will need:

FMIC

Exhaust

Bleed Valve

SAFC or full Computer

every car is different... my car obviously needs a bigger turbo which i am having installed at the moment, but then you also need:

Fuel Pump

Injectors

AFM

Depends on who you know and what you can do yourself. Shop arround get second had exhaust SAFC ect to cut costs.

-Intercooler kits are gettig cheeper and cheeper around $600 for a Hybrid copy

-exhaust second hand jap brand 600-700 highflow cat and dump pipe $300 or so for both (look in the forsale section on these forums)

-SAFC 350-400 or power FC 950 with hand controller from Nengun.

-$30 boost controller off forums (search $22 boost controller)

at least$250-$300 for a dyno

regap plugs to 0.8 free if you do it yourself.

So it is possible to do it from stock for under $2500 if you can install all the parts yourself but pay for a dyno tune.

My mods and power are in Sig thats pretty close to 200rwkw.

Every can is different though but with these mods expect 180 - 200 rwkw depending on engine condition tune ect. The only thing I would have done different is I should have brought a Power FC instead of a SAFC.

:rofl:

It varies from car to car as others have already mentioned. My GTS-t had:

FMIC

Full 3" Turbo-back exhaust

Bleed Valve (9psi)

K&N Panel Filter

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Greddy Exhaust Cam Gear

Splitfire Ignition Coils

So that all up would be about ~$4k

Notice though that not many (if any) mentioned Splitfire Coils or Exhaust Cam Gear but instead mentioned a tuned PowerFC or an aftermarket turbo... Just shows their are different ways of obtaining power, some people take the easy option (better flowing turbo) and others choose to extract the maximum power out of each part before replacing it.

i have

stock turbo

pfc - 1000

nismo fuel pump - 500

sard fpr - 300

intercooler - 1300 (ripped off i know)

exhaust - 700

AVC-R - 350

cam gears - 250  

tune - 550

220 rwkw !!!!!

too easy, now to get a timeslip

either your turbo is a hiflow and u dont know it, or else the dyno was ready very high, as 220rwkw is not possible with your mods, specifically the stock turbo. maybe try another dyno.

btw. what psi were u running?

Turbo back is front pipes, dump pipes, cat, rear exhaust

cat back is just the rear exhaust.

the front/dump/cat will give you another 10-15rwkw along with much better response.

i have

stock turbo

pfc - 1000

nismo fuel pump - 500

sard fpr - 300

intercooler - 1300 (ripped off i know)

exhaust - 700

AVC-R - 350

cam gears - 250  

tune - 550

220 rwkw !!!!!

too easy, now to get a timeslip

:chairshot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...