Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey.

Well cracked a piston ring in my car so i ended up ringing around and found a mate with an RB20det head and bottom end cheap so i grabbed that.

Motor was from a late modle Cefiro 4WD auto.

Had to do a few little modifications like the sump but other then that we just bolted on everything from my old motor onto the new one and dumped her in.

The problem is that when it was all together and in everything wired up it would turn over but wouldnt start. Straight away started thinking timing but checked once, checked twice, checked 3 times and the cam gears where lined up with the factory marks etc.

Next, tried moving the crank angle sensor around but still wouldnt work, un did the bolts off it and moved it around more and it did start and was running fine. Problem is that where it is to be running is around so that the crank angle cannot be bolted down in the correct holes..

So obviosuly something somewhere is not lined up correctly..

The guy whos doing the motor swap just asked if i can manage to find a picture of the cam timeing marks or something which can help him..

Alternatly does anyone know what could be wrong? Where useing the Crank angle sensor off my old RB20 if that would matter at all?

Could the cams be different to the ones from my old motor?

The old motor was from a R32 GTST im pretty sure so yer is there any difference..

Please can someone help with ideas or hopefully know whats going on??? :D

Cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82152-rb20det-timing-problem/
Share on other sites

Check the cam timing..

Different cams won't cause it not to start. Hell the stock ecu ran the rb30det in fine and that was running a rb25 head with different cams, bigger valves and bigger ports. :D

I'd be inclined to say the cam timing is out.

Its very simply to do.. Line up the crank at TDC then the both cams at TDC.

If the dude doing the engine swap can't find the marks or doesn't know where to look I would seriously doubt is ability. :(

nah he has everything lined up, the cam gears are lined up with the marks on the plastic back part and he said the cams are lined up as well... Hes going to work on it again tomorrow and said it should only be about an hours work but i thought id ask on here anyway...

would it have anything at all to do with useing the crank angle sensor off the other motor? i would say not but just to be curious???

My car has an EMS computer as well if thats anything to do with anything??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...