Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys im trying to finalise my engine setup

i wanna piss of the engine fan and get thermo fan setup going

like on S2000s and WRXs

has anyone used a setup like this?

how do you reckon it would go on an RB30?

wat esle would you guys recommend?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/
Share on other sites

something like a davies craig 16"

fan should flow near enough,

one of these flow more than  

2 x 12" fans, might be worth a look

This is what I had done recently. Hooked to a thermostat in the cooling system.

Definately no overheating issues. Hardly ever needs to come on in this weather.

Will have to see how it goes in Summer in traffic.

El Bee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1490593
Share on other sites

Guest DIRTgarage
yea i know lol i wanna clean up the engine bay and get rid of as much crap as i can

the engine fan looks shit house

ive heard of people using thermos instead of the engine fan having over heating issues

Anthony, we use a 16inch davies craig fan on TWO.06L. works a treat and rids us of that ugly engine fan. As an added bonus makes working on the front of the car and radiator removal much easier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1490601
Share on other sites

thanks for the info guys

im gonna try and fit a set of WRX ones cause they are very neat and compact

they can cool a 500hp WRX with no issues so i guess they should be ok for my car

do i have to run it off a thermo switch or can i just have them running all the time?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1490642
Share on other sites

If you run them all the time, you are basically defeating the purpose of fitting them (other than they look prettier than the factory one). The alternator, and hence the engine, has to work harder to keep power available.

If you aren't going to run them off a thermo switch, then at least run them off a manual override switch - you turn them on when you think they need to be on.

Personally, haven't had much success with the thermo setup. You need to ensure that the air is going to go through the radiator (the factory fan ensures this will happen), otherwise your engine will be continually overheating. Mine even turned the fan on on a slight incline @110kph on a mild (say 23C) day!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1490744
Share on other sites

well the way i was looking at it was that the engine fan is on constanatly

its always pulling air though the radiator while the engine is on.

so im just gonna replace it with a pair of electric ones

I think the clutch fan uses the clutch to vary it's speed so that's not quite true.

I use twin fans with an unknown shroud. One of the fans is busted and doesn't work and it still cools my water temp to about 80 degrees (sr20) so the twins are good even one... it even spins my air condensor fan on the other side of the radiator!

I have a manual switch that turns it on and off however jaycar have a temp sensor kit thing that lets you turn it on at say 85 degrees and turn it off at 80 degrees (I forgot what that particular ranging is called).

I'm currently looking for a replacement fan though but I think the jaycar kit is the cheap and safe way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1490766
Share on other sites

The ones pictured below ( FLX220 ) were the ones I had on my HR31 and they fit perfectly and worked very well ( suffered a little on really hot days ).

- FLX220 Specs: H: 15.5" x W: 26.25" x D: 2.625" 2,500 CFM and 19.5amp draw.

If they fit, the FLX295W ( also pictured below ) would be a much better option.

- FLX295W Specs: H17.5" x W: 27.5" x D: 4" 4,000 CFM and 28amp draw.

BTW these are from Summit Racing Products in the USA.

( I don't know if there's anything like these in Aus but if so, they might be cheaper ).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1490820
Share on other sites

Just as blind_elk said, that it really defeats the purpose and puts drag on the enging when it is unnecessary.

As per someonestolecc, my mechanic set it I think at that 80-85 range and used the consult port to check everything.

The fan(s) will switch on when it needs to. The mechanic did add another overide switch for me to have it run constantly when, and if, I want it to.

El Bee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1492427
Share on other sites

im not fitting em to reduce drag

im fitting em to clean up my engine bay because im going all out on it

hiding all the wiring and chroming everything and the fan ruins it

so rephrasing my question will having the fans on constantly have any negative effects on the running of the engine apart from this altenator issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82155-thermo-fans/#findComment-1492440
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
    • If it does get a turbo it would blow the JCW Mini out of the water considering how "close" some of the tests were. Then again the Mini would probably get one of them Stage 69 tunes.
    • Next up, the extinguisher is mounted but really only temporary because I ran into clearance problems (the bracket fit fine....until I put an extinguisher on it). It picks up the seat bolt mounts but has long bolts running through 20mm spacers for now Doing it properly requires a bit of quick welding but I ran out of time, this will do for the practice day  
    • Family events weekend but a snuck a couple of things in. NSW state champs were down at Wakefield so I got Gordon Leven's to bring some A052s down in the right size for some spare rims I had that "fit" (actually ex-Leaf Nismo.Rays in 18x7.5). Tyres are 235/45/18 so they are narrower than stock (19x8.5s) but I need to keep road tyres on it for daily use for now. In a first, those weird size tyres had been in the yoko warehouse for so long (4.5 years apparently) that they offered 4 for the price of 2....so 4 practice tyres for about $1100. Bit of a bargain for sticker tyres, considering the real purpose of the practice day is mostly to see how the various temps go (and the weather is due to help, forecast 32o). In terms of race wheels, it looks like I should be able to fit 9.5 fronts and 10.5 rears but 18 vs 19 height will be based on what tyres I can get in the right size - good tyres are very limited in available widths in diameters above 17" so some planning is needed. Once I'm sure this car will work I'll order a set of custom BC wheels like I did for the R32, you can get exactly the right width and offset to make the most of the available space in the wheel well (the 32 has 295s all round on 18x10s and they are awesome) Incidentally A052 are asymmetrical but not directional which is good news for rally use if the front and rear wheel sizes are different because I can swap them side to side on the same axle. Directional tyres are a nightmare with staggered size wheels because each tyre is fixed on that corner unless you can get it rotated on the rim (not really practical mid rally in most cases)
×
×
  • Create New...