Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Updated price: $6,500

Updated with pictures

Has 102,000km on the clock

Is a stock standard RB25DET and gearbox and clutch and driveline

Interior drivers garnish and air con vents are damaged, have a new one here

Diff provides no drive, I assume the drivers side halfshaft has been pulled out of the diff.

Needs a rear quarter cut, drivers side suspension subframe and drivers door. A-pillar is unharmed. B-pillar needs a little straightening where the drivers side intrusion bar bent it backwards about a centimetre.

Bootlid is fine but now needs a little touchup paint on the edge because the rear quarter is touching the bootlid and the hinge of the bootlid is pushed about 1cm in, therefore the boot doesn't shut properly.

From a couple of us checking the car out, we *dont think* the subframe is bent but still could be by an unnoticeably small amount.

Needs a new wheel and rear caliper assembly, they were broken as part of the accident.

The engine and gearbox stock standard and are perfect, the owner was a big wuss when it came to thrashing cars.

Car has no rego, registration has been cancelled. There are no debts on it either. It is fully complied under low volume system, been in Australia for a few years with the one owner.

Click each picture for a large version

01.JPG

02.JPG

03.JPG

04.JPG

05.JPG

06.JPG

07.JPG

08.JPG

09.JPG

10.JPG

11.JPG

12.JPG

13.JPG

14.JPG

15.JPG

pictures fixed

Diff isn't stuffed

The halfshaft was pulled out of the diff, I've welded up the supsension mounts and the car can now be driven, here are the repaired pictures:

r33a.jpg

r33b.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
wanna swap for a 91 VN Calais? :)

Does it do sik skidz bro?

cuz if my homies wont restecpa me if i can do skidz up chappz uleh

Seriously, the car left today, thanks for the offers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...