Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

I'm seriously thinking of buying my mates rb25 with lots of work done to it and removing my rb20 out of r32 manual gts-t and has anyone done this before and was it a prick of a thing to do or was it straight in? Apparently if i keep my r32 gearbox in my car with a rb25 it wont work cause of some shaft that is too big on my gearbox but if i use his gearbox which is series 2 r33 box it will be fine? What do u ppl reckon all comments and tips needed,

Thanks Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82183-r32gts-t-with-rb20-maybe-to-be-rb25/
Share on other sites

i had an R32/HR31 gearbox bolted to the back of my RB25.

only recently put an RB25 box in behind the RB25 motor.

notice much difference with the rb25 box?

im still running the rb20 box behind the rb25 in my r32 :cheers:

with the price of gearboxes these days i was thinking i will probably just replace it with another rb20 box if this one dies.

seems to be going strong though...

i figured as long as i dont put some comp slicks or something on the back then it shouldnt be too bad... dunno :)

hows yours?

I did the conversion but i never had the 20 box behind the rb25 so i cant really say what the diff is however on the whole i strongly recommend conversion. Mod plates in qld are cheap as chips to get to. One question i have that i dont feel has been answered in previous discussions, of all the people that have done this conversion what have you done with your diff? eg. keep 20, replace with 25, strengthen rebuild of 20??? After about 3 months of solid driving and a night out at willowbank 1/4 mile mine is starting to slowly slip which my heavy duty clutch isnt a huge fan of and i want to get it sorted. Should I get strong rebuild of 20 (ive heard good things) or go the 25 swap?? keep in mind it was originally non turbo (4 stud)

notice much difference with the rb25 box?

im still running the rb20 box behind the rb25 in my r32 :cheers:

the gearstick sits about 5cm higher.

thats the only difference.

My RB20 box wasnt stuffed. It just got the death whine about it.

So i upgraded before it died rather than afterwards.

I did this conversion on a GTS4. The RB25DET drops straight in and the gearbox bolts straight up onto the engine.

Next step is to fit a 4.08 diff set to replace the stock 4.375 - RB25DET just has too much torque for the current ratios.

Should I get strong rebuild of 20 (ive heard good things) or go the 25 swap?? keep in mind it was originally non turbo (4 stud)

diff stength I've heard is quite similar.. in fact the R32 clutch based diff one may be stronger than the viscous diff on the later R33 (edit: ok, maybe thats not correct). If you have an LSD, it should be the same as the one fitted to the turbo model. Depending on the cost, vs finding another one, I'd get your existing one rebuilt.

I thought only the32 GTR had a clutch type, gtst still has a viscous

On a side note, i've also done the swap and it is great. Same turbo and i now have full boost at 2800 rather than 4200 :cheers: Also have an extra 25 kw at the same boost with a shitty home tune on the emanage, though i now have a pfc in it and it feels alot stronger with even more midrange punch.

Retained the rb20 box, retained the rb20 diff (but that was already dying). It's next on the list of replacements.

  • 1 month later...

What final plans have you got for the rb25det?

If its to head upwards of 300rwkw why not simply grab a R32 RB25DE, slap a set of forged pistons in it and be done with it.

The PowerFC will run fine on the r32 rb25de, afterall, thats exactly what I have done with the only difference being I slapped a rb30 block underneath the rb25 head.

The reason I say to go forged pistons is the N/A blocks don't run piston oil squirters. :D

The only issue that may exist is the emissions side of things as you will be obviously using an aftermarket ecu, that obviously doesn't bother you though. ;)

It will still run on the rb20det ecu, simply throw an R33 wastegate actuator to limit boost to 6-7psi. 6-7psi is on the limit of the rb20det's ecu fuel cut once you are running the much better flowing rb25 head.

Edited by Cubes

you rb30 pusher you..

or slap in a perfectly good rb25 bolted together.. loom, etc. Nothing to worry about drilling blocks, speaking to engine builders, etc. Good for a nice 230-250rwkw with revability. If it blows, you have all the required parts ready to go for rb30 later on.. :D

i run an ap engineering power fc on my rb20det, will this work on the rb25det, and can you use the same loom.

rb20det doesnt run VCT, rb25det runs VCT (edit: oops).. you would have to disable the VCT via playing with the engine and dick around... spoils the point of the drop in approach.

I can think of quite a few parts also that are different between rb25 and rb20 looms that would cause you problems with rb20 loom: cas, ignitor, injectors. But maybe its possible.

Edited by predator

heheh

I said to run a R32 RB25DE and slap a set of forged pistons in it. :D

No wiring mods, it really is a simple drop in bolt turbo manifold up, connect up inlet piping start and drive away on the stock ecu, providing you don't dial in more than 6-7psi. :cheers:

Its static compression is an issue at 10:1 or there abouts, another reason for the forged pistons or any aftermarket piston.

No pushing rb30 here :D

Edited by Cubes
rb20det doesnt run VVT, rb25det runs vvt.. you would have to disable the vvt via playing with the engine and dick around... spoils the point of the drop in approach.

I can think of quite a few parts also that are different between rb25 and rb20 looms that would cause you problems with rb20 loom: cas, ignitor, injectors. But maybe its possible.

Only later model RB25DETs run VVT. You can simply add in the wiring for the VVT solenoid. This is the advice I was given AFTER I had wired a whole new loom into my RB25DET -> (R32) GTS4 conversion.

I think there are other threads that suggest you simply swap over the RB20 sensors into the RB25, and everything works OK. Although I was running a RB25 CAS on my RB20, and it seemed to run OK.

Its only the rb25de's from the R32's that don't run the vct. All R33 motors (apart from rb26) run the VCT.

You can't simply add the VCT wiring and be done with it as the r33 rb25det ecu pin out is different. It has a few extra little bits plus a different arrangement. Allthough not a major drama, its easy enough to swap a few pins around.

I've checked out ecu pin outs in the engine manuals. If only it was so easy. :cheers:

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...