Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers Alan. I find that position is critical and fit up to within 1mm.

There's really 2 types of seats, the flat ones and the curved ones. The flat ones will deform a little in the middle when you sit on them. I prefer the curved type, or specifically the Selle Italia type based on the Turbo. My all time favourite is the Flite titanium railed jobbie with a nice smooth leather surface that allows me to just slip into the bucket. The titanium absorbs and attenuates road shock. I also have a Fiziik which is flat on the mountain bike and is not as nice for my shape and a something O2 on the TT bike which is pretty good and similar to the Flite.

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Troy, when you are on a multi day tour you are often allocated accomodation. We were slow on our warmdown and the only bedspace left was a double bed. Having just raced over 250 km that day we were glad for any place to sleep.

Flite Titianium is my personal weapon of choice and I am on my second. Surprisingly comfortable for what looks like so little.

Keep those tips coming and second installment is awaiting! OK enough wine for the evening for me.

On Sunday 16th October is the annual Bicycle Victoria 'Round the Bay in a Day' - 210km cycle challenge.

I'm entering (this will be my 3rd time - didn't finish the first though) and was wondering if anyone else is interested? Teams are eligble for special prizes - and can even be run in a relay format (ie: 4x people doing 50km each)

More info at http://www.bv.com.au

Anyone game?

It takes a minimum of 4 for a team - with no limit.

All entrants get a jersey - but I can look into custom ones if we get enough numbers (10+)

That would be a great idea James BUT i'm too old, too fat and too lazy so thanks but no thanks

Clarkey

Hehe - I love your honesty Clarkey :P

Reading Geoff and Alans posts have moved me into the 'know nothing hack' category of cyclist.

I can't remember the last time I rode a non-mountain bike... you guys are going to blitz me :

Thats where the difference is James. All mine is mountain bike! Used to have a Bianche road bike a few years back but couldnt get along with it so sold it. Just had a set of wheels for the road with slick tyres and a custom built set of wheels for the dirt with knobblies (which are now my road wheels).

Keep meaning to check James, I assume you havent entered yet and that a team entry would be done in one hit as opposed to individual entries under a team banner? If you have already entered, I will get on to it.

Brisby its Saturday mate i.e tomorrow! Either of you still on? B)

Scorp - I beieve we are still looking for one more to make the team. Confirm with Jamezilla though as he is doing the organising.

Scorp - just saw the reply. Had the dilemma with the london marathon 2 years on the trot as well versus competing the national in the national series in the UK so know what yuo mean.

Brisby its Saturday mate i.e tomorrow! Either of you still on? B)

Oops, i have car things planned for the morning, ill be doing a bit by myself though in the afternoon, more general fitnes work then anything else...need to grab road tyres for the mountain bike i will be training on

Yeah - Sat am still good for me.

Can't do the arvo, nor Sunday morning :unsure:

Perhaps Alan and I can do a quick one - then look at organising more 'real' training with some tips from Geoff? I still have knobbies on the bike too - but happy to use it.

Still need one more sucker... I mean 'hero' to join up though :P

OK - I'm up in Sydney for the City-to-Surf this weekend... but who's up for a training ride next weekend?

Sat morning again?

Sounds good James. Have been adhering to my training schedule this week which includes less alcohol. :P

OK, time for some more motivation......bike fit.

Your bike should be comfortable, so you need to make sure that everything is in the right position for YOU. Not some table. They are a good starting point but from there you need to sdjust the fit.

Personally I like to adjust the seat so it's a comfortable distance back from the bars. Too much weight on the hands and you will know it, and your lower back. One of the best positions found for height and position is to sit on the bike with the cranks aligned with the seat tube, and using a plumb bob locate the nexus of the kneecap and knee joint and locate the string over this point. If the seat position is correct then the knee will be just broken and the plumb line will run straight through the axle. From this position, if you find you have a little pain in the front region of the knee then raise your seat. If the pain is at the rear then lower your seat. It won't be real painful, just uncomfortable pushing a big gear. You will understand when you feel it. I can always help with this. Only ever adjust by 2mm increments. You may have to ride 5-10km to start to notice the difference.

The weight on the hands is now adjusted by setting the handlebar reach and height. Always tough to setup but you should not be too low. This is for racing flat out and most of the weight is taken off the hands and so you get low for weight balance to drive the bike faster. On a longer ride you will appreciate sitting a bit higher. Also try to change hand position every 5 minutes.

Aero bars:

these are good for an extra position but you need to adapt to the extended position as it puts a lot of strain on the back through the illiotibial tendons. If you can easily put your hands flat on the ground then you are ready to start using them.

The best ones don't take up the position on the bar tops where you need to put your hands. You will lose some stability control of you bike (hence why triathletes can't ride to save themselves as they constantly ride straight roads on them- see tricrashletes). Mine are spring loaded so pop up when I am off them to give me full access to the bar tops. I tape them down for fast TT's that are a short distance like tour prologues.

Start with 5 mins then start extending the time on them but use for no longer than 20 min if just cruising. I still recommend about 5 min before changing position.

OK, time for some more motivation......bike fit.

Your bike should be comfortable, so you need to make sure that everything is in the right position for YOU. Not some table. They are a good starting point but from there you need to sdjust the fit.

Personally I like to adjust the seat so it's a comfortable distance back from the bars. Too much weight on the hands and you will know it, and your lower back. One of the best positions found for height and position is to sit on the bike with the cranks aligned with the seat tube, and using a plumb bob  locate the nexus of the kneecap and knee joint and locate the string over this point. If the seat position is correct then the knee will be just broken and the plumb line will run straight through the axle. From this position, if you find you have a little pain in the front region of the knee then raise your seat. If the pain is at the rear then lower your seat. It won't be real painful, just uncomfortable pushing a big gear. You will understand when you feel it. I can always help with this. Only ever adjust by 2mm increments. You may have to ride 5-10km to start to notice the difference.

Exactly what I was saying to James on our ride when talking about pedal stroke/clipless pedal and shoe position and saddle position. The plumb line is the key.

Good words Geoff. Definately know what you mean about tri-bars and lack of ability at times.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...