Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this has probably been drilled to death this topic, just want to know if anyone knew what bov will easily hold 18 - 20psi without leaking, and is preferablly plumb back, is the greddy type s any good cos to me it just looks like the stock one, what about the hks ssqv? the car is going to be a drift car soon, is it necessary to put a bov on? will pluging the hole up do any harm to the turbo or the engine?

regards luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82311-wat-bov-wll-hold-18psi-20psi/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

the only time the factory bov MIGHT have a problem is being able to "VENT".

say you have are making a shit load of power using a large turbo which is gulping in masses of air... then during gearchanges, the sotck bov might not be able to "VENT" enough air and you will have reversion.

but the bov doesn't leak or open.

as stated above... it has a spring pressure, PLUS, even boost pressure on both sides of the diaphram.

well what can my problem be if its not the bov, when it was getting dynoed they could not hold 18psi at all it would spike there then drop to around 12psi, what could be causing this but a leak as they checked all the intercooler pipes for leaks and they said there was none, could my actuator be stuffed? i just blamed it on the stock bov because its the only part of the pipe work air can escape. my turbo is a highflowed job and should hold 18psi??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...