Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, Discopotato, you are right. Later I thought my comment didn't read well.

I asked whether the GT30 housing came as an unmachined or semi-finished blank that required finishing before fitting up. If that were the case (and doesn't seem to be), then the possibility could exist.

How then, does Garrett get the 56.5mm wheel mated up to the internally gated housing that they call a GT30 that is evidently very different to the externally gated GT3076 with its 60mm wheel? I say "evidently very different" because of their vastly differing flow/efficiency maps and the obvious different method of turbine speed control.

Do they both fall within the UHP family, and where is the information about that and NSIII?

Hopefully I will get it soon...

BTW I am going to kick off a thread about interpreting turbine maps just to keep the brain ticking over.

cheers

The GT30 and GT28 exhaust housings are very different internally both being based around their native turbine major diameters ie 60 and 54mm . They modified or cropped the 60mm to the maximum size that would fit in an overboared GT28 housing and came up with 56.6mm . The Hub is too big and heavy for the shortened blades and the blade form is not the best in shortened form . The GT28 nozzle form was designed for GT28 turbines and so not optimised for the diametre of the hybrid . Turbine efficiency suffers and shows up as lag .

  • 4 weeks later...

Great result quincy777, and right on target.

Couple of things I would like comment on if possible:

what sort of flange adaptor did you fabricate, and how did the turbo - suspension tower clearance work out?

what did you do for a suitable dump pipe

what is the boost threshold point (ie when does it go from vacuum to pressure)

how quickly does it build boost (once on boost)? Looking for comment about whether the power is controllable

cheers

Dale

Nice results for the 3071. When do you get full boost? Is it internally gated? Like the 3071-WG on atpturbo.com?

I get a bar of boost by 4rpm, internally gated and on standard manifold. Bought it from horsepower in a box. Lot's of fiddling and adapting with flanges, lines and crap but seems a great option..

I am planning to run one of these once I put some money aside (currently doing some serious body work!). From what Ive read around the place the GT3071R has almost the same spec front wheel/housing as the HKS GT2835ProS turbo. The main difference with the current breed of GT3071R is that theyre very common with a T25 Int Gate rear housing. Its been discussed around the place that getting the GT3071 with a 90 trim exhaust wheel and a HKS T3 .73 a/r exh housing is the way to go, as Garrett only offer a .6x and a .8x size in T3.

Housings are only USD$300 from HKS direct.

JK

  • 1 month later...

I've been thinking of putting a Garrett GT3071R on my RB20, do the RB20 manifold take T3 then?

Is this the turbo you lot are talking about? http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

was going to order it with 3in outlet ect.

But didn't know what you guys would surgest for A/R, i think i got the undertstanding that .82 is the one to go for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...