Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick question regarding my the new P plate bans


habibskyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey all

I just got my license disqualified last thursday for 12 months,

now i need to know whether or not i will be able to drive my skyline when i get my license back next july?

I have owned the car since last december, and it is registered in my name?

So will I be able to continue driving it, cause i'm not sure if i have to sell it or keep it??

Thanks heaps guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont think there should be a problem. Doesnt it not apply to exisiting P platers, if you had to re-do the test maybe, but i dont think so otherwise...

Hmmm something to investigate

*edit* thinking i might need some sleep, this post doenst make much sence :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you were disqualified then I think you're in trouble.

From the RTA site: "The prohibited vehicle condition does not apply to:

Existing provisional (P1 and P2) licence holders prior to 11 July 2005, unless they are disqualified for a serious driving offence committed on or after 11 July 2005."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, but it states in bold, "committed on or after 11 July 2005"...because i got caught driving unlicensed before july 11th, so does it mean if you do a serious driving offence only on or after july 11th you can't drive it?

Hmm...? Might have to give the RTA a call on monday

anyone else know?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, but it states in bold, "committed on or after 11 July 2005"...because i got caught driving unlicensed before july 11th, so does it mean if you do a serious driving offence only on or after july 11th you can't drive it?

Hmm...? Might have to give the RTA a call on monday

anyone else know?

yes thats right, if your an old P plater and you get your licence suspended after 11th july and u get it back in 6 months you wont be able to drive any turbo cars or have a passenger.

however if you lost your licence before 11th its ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have heard a few different things going round, the best thing to do is ask the RTA, becasue the way i understand it is, u are ok to drive it when u get it back however u may not carry more than one passenger in the vehicle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im sure its ok, if u got caught on the 8th, however u got disqualified after july 11th, so im sorry to say but i think ur unlucky. cause i lost mine on the 1st of july and i remember i was saying to everyone how lucky i was not to of lost it after the 11th but i cant remember why. coming to think of it i think ur gonna have to cop it, u did lose it after the 11th, i dont think it matters when the offence was, as they have to give u that 21 days notice of suspension..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your loose your license for a period of 12months or longer,you will have to re-sit the test and do a full 12months on red P's again,,,not sure about if you have to do another driving test(though i think you might).

Sux 2 B U!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
im sure its ok, if u got caught on the 8th, however u got disqualified after july 11th, so im sorry to say but i think ur unlucky. cause i lost mine on the 1st of july and i remember i was saying to everyone how lucky i was not to of lost it after the 11th but i cant remember why. coming to think of it i think ur gonna have to cop it, u did lose it after the 11th, i dont think it matters when the offence was, as they have to give u that 21 days notice of suspension..

Any disqualification is taking from the date of the offence. Not from when you recieve your sentence.

I should know, I recently lost my licence for 6 months and only have 2 months left (yay). And my disqualification period started from the date of the offence. So you should be all good if you got caught on the 8th pal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...