Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 Series 1 Skyline, metallic gunmetal grey, RB25DET Automatic, 128000Kms.

BN sideskirts, BN rear bar, 400R front bar, Vented Fibreglass bonnet, 4 door chrome headlights, 2x 18" WORK Euroline mags, Tisonics alarm and immoboliser.

Whiteline lowered springs, 5" Supercat Canon, GReddy turbo timer, engine standard, Omori white face boost gauge

Pioneer DEH6550 headunit, Pioneer 6.5" speakers, Pioneer 12" sub and Alpine amp.

Always serviced every 5,000kms, well maintained and clean example.

Does not come with 19s for this price!!! Car is getting dyno tested and serviced this week.

DYNO RESULTS

Power - 146.3kW@166KPH

Torque - 366.8NM@134KPH

at max 6PSI in third gear 1:1

REDUCED: $14900neg. Call 0402 581 896 for more details.

1048168.jpg

1048161.jpg

1048164.jpg

1048162.jpg

Edited by DRFT33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82428-fs-r33-skyline-gtst-in-adelaide/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

bump, now back on the market and now comes with 18inch Work Eurolines on the rear, but still comes with the full set of 19" Koya Inox rims. Need to sell soon, gettin a S14 so no need for two cars!

Edited by DRFT33

The engine is standard besides running 7psi all the time (solenoid bypass), i wouldn't know exactly how many kWs at the wheels, i've never dyno'd it, but you can do a search and find out the specs for a standard one and that'd give you a rough idea.

Alot of people say autos are crap etc, but there isn't enough noticeable difference between the power difference. You could buy a shift kit (about $400) and that would be a good upgrade. Depends on what you're after really.

Its an Auto:(

you'll be surprised mate. auto's are as good if not better than manuals - no blowns clutches for starters.

ive seen this car around, very nice looking. good luck with the sale mate.

1993 Series 1 Skyline, metallic gunmetal grey, RB25DET Automatic, 123000Kms.

19inch KOYA INOX mags, BN sideskirts, BN rear bar, 400R front bar, Vented Fibreglass bonnet, 4 door chrome headlights, 2x 18" WORK Euroline mags, Tisonics alarm and immoboliser.

Whiteline lowered springs, 5" Supercat Canon (not on photos), GReddy turbo timer, engine standard, Omori white face boost gauge

Pioneer DEH6550 headunit, Pioneer 6.5" speakers, Pioneer 12" sub and Alpine amp.

Always serviced every 5,000kms, new waterpump, belts, brakes. Well maintained and clean example.

REDUCED: $16500neg. Call 0402 581 896 for more details.

driverrear.jpg

IMGP1702.jpg

IMGP1719.jpg

Hey dude,

My mate's looking at buying a Skyline. How would you feel about 15K cash??

if he's serious about it, give me a buzz or PM me and he can come and check it out, road test etc. and we'll go from there (assuming you're from adelaide). i've gotta couple of people coming to look at it so best offer.

Edited by DRFT33
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

sorry no because i don't have the stock bonnet.

Car was dyno tested today

Power - 146.3kW@166KPH

Torque - 366.8NM@134KPH

at max 6PSI in third gear 1:1

pretty good for a stock standard engine, air/fuel mixtures were good and will be able to easily handle more boost with suitable mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...