Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm looking at getting a q45afm, and were wondering if it would be too big.

I have a fmic, pfc, full exhaust, GT30 (.7ar) turbo and other systems to support.

Is there such thing as getting an AFM thats too big? I know this one is a size up from the z32, but will it work just as good? The reason I am opting for this one is its one of the only ones I can find for a good price.

Let me know what you think.

I'm only chasing 260rwkw.

Generally the best way of deciding what fueling components to use is to choose the injector/AFM that will just get you to the desired power you are after. This way you maximise the resolution in your operating range.

That said if a Q45 is the only AFM you can find at a decent price then I would just get that. I think you can change the resolution of the specified AFM within the PFC based on a percentage amount also.

do you think I'll just be able to plug and play?

My mate is a boiler maker, and he can do anything for me to make it fit.

<img src='http://members.iinet.net.au/~sennan/pod bracket.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image'>

were you asking me or asking in general?

youll need to adapt wiring, adjust all your pluming to suit the 90mm instead of 80mm and also choose the vh41 afm in the powerfc menu. i would have your tuner check and do it to make sure it doesnt give wacko results. the power limit of the q45 has been questioned a few times, with no real proof or evidence. would be great if someone could say i have this much, here is the graph or what not. the wiring is on my site

yeah I was asking you.

Just curious if I just plug the AFM in, will I just select it in the AFM menu, and thats it, no further tuning required?

Or does the PFC need to be retuned due to the different readings from the AFM?

a little confusing...my apologies

yeah I was asking you.

Just curious if I just plug the AFM in, will I just select it in the AFM menu, and thats it, no further tuning required?

Or does the PFC need to be retuned due to the different readings from the AFM?

a little confusing...my apologies

well im not entirely sure having never done it. that being said when you choose the afm in the powerfc menu that would be the all the adjustment that would be required in theory? now that wont work in practice so im not sure, i would say get your tuner to select and then do a dyno run checking the a/fs cos it might go mega rich or lean. a guy in melb fitted one and then it was running mega rich but im not sure on the reason so its hard to say. i guess if it pops n farts a lot when you choose the afm then its mega rich

The mixtures will most probably change I'm sorry to tell you. In theory as long as the MAF calibration within the PFC is correct it should be close but it is never really the case in practise.

A little off the subject but - I had to retune a twin screw supercharged VY crewman the other day with a new VZ 90mm MAF. The car was running the standard delphi ECU. What i did was copy the MAF calibration table from a VZ into the ECU. Now you would think with all the corrections available to the ECU that this should be enough but unfortunately it still needed some tweaking. Just goes to show that theory is still a fair way off compared to practise.

Hi Guys,

              I'm looking at getting a q45afm, and were wondering if it would be too big.

I have a fmic, pfc, full exhaust, GT30 (.7ar) turbo and other systems to support.

Is there such thing as getting an AFM thats too big? I know this one is a size up from the z32, but will it work just as good? The reason I am opting for this one is its one of the only ones I can find for a good price.

Let me know what you think.

I'm only chasing 260rwkw.

A z32 will be enough to get you to the 300kw mark.

A q45 will give up 350+ but it won't be street drivable as it will have problems idling.

Just to note.

For some wierd reason the RB20 PowerFC has a different AFM calibration airflow curve to that of the RB25 PowerFC.

Looking through a few others i.e S13,S14,S15 etc they all have a different airflow curve calibration for the same AFM?!?

I don't understand why they would do such a thing. :(

Around about the 200rwkw mark you want to look at upgrading to a z32.

ive seen this on the forums heaps but i have seen 2 cars (both friends) that made 250+ rwkw with the standard afm's .

both these cars made that power safe and comfortable with no issues.

Any one else tried pushing a standard afm until they ran into trouble?

SK???

cheers ..Jim

A z32 will be enough to get you to the 300kw mark.

A q45 will give up 350+ but it won't be street drivable as it will have problems idling.

hi bbq

can you go into more details on the idling problems? do you know any specifics about it??

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
    • The consult isn't even OBD1. It's a Nissan Consult. Proprietary.   Re read everything I've said. I specifically say, put down the laptop/tablet. Understand, and review the issue first. Logging voltages is the same as logging the converted value. Things like O2 that you say to log, is unusable for this, whether it be the voltage, or the value the ECU thinks.   The fact you don't know how to diagnose without looking at the computer, is exactly what I've said multiple times is the issue for why techs these days can't diagnose the fun issues with cars.
    • Breather for it. If it's anything like the GTRs it should run up to the top of a bellhousing bolt.
    • What basics? With these OBD1 ECUs it's not like the ECU will give you any real clues, it's not really doing any sanity checking of sensors/sensor data. My experience is actually a lot of sensors tend to be the source of the issue first and foremost, and checking everything gives you a direction to investigate. MAF/O2/STFT/LTFT should all kind of make sense. You can try little tricks of the trade like tapping the MAFs to see if it triggers a stumble, things like that. But once you've done a compression test knowing whether you have an air leak or fuel delivery problem is kind of hard to narrow down without sensor data. And you don't really know if all your sensors are making sense unless you can interrogate the ECU directly about what it's seeing for sensor data.
    • Absolutely this. Yes, except not vacuum hose. Something oil/fuel safe is a better idea.
×
×
  • Create New...