Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i have a r32 4 door turbz, and lately i have noticed that it doesnt accelerate through the upper end of the tacho (4,000+) as fast as it should and sometimes it would just no go past 4500 revs in gears. It felt like the engine was just out of puff. You could feel the torque from about 3-4000 but torque and power would just die off. So i adjusted the timing and it went alot better (no pinging), but after about 5 minutes you could notice that the proformance had slightly droped off. And the next day the car would go back to its slugish ways. So the next day timing was again adjusted but day or two after it would again be back to it slow state. WTF is going on :P ? Is the ecu retarding it self?

Only mods on the car is full 3" exhaust. Fuel filter and fuel pump catchment was replaced 1000kms ago, oil and oil filter still failry fresh, and spark plugs arent too bad either.

Any advice would be helpful, Thanx :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82614-rb20-timing-problem/
Share on other sites

1. Nah its not blowing smoke

2. wot is a lean pop?

3. nah its not pinging throughout the rev range

4. i cant tell if the timing is stayind where i set it at. I know the crank angle sesor isnt moving that for sure, but cause i do the timing by trial and error (adjustd it, drive it, adjust it again). i cant tell. I should invest in a timing gun

5. yea i checked that, and all pipes are tight

How do u go about adjusting timing with a timing gun, i read somewhere you need to take apart the coil packs or something. Or theres some white wire at the back near the firewall

thanx

ive been having the same problems with my r32 i found the afm was dirty cleaned and re tested seems to be better but the problem is still there am working on finding this problem as im about to go on a dyno day and i dont want this problem to occure will keep trying to sorce it but who knows where it will end up

Have you checked that your cat isnt falling apart inside? Or are you running no cat? Your car can go shit not just from intake issues but also exhaust restrictions. My car stopped revving past 4 and really struggled... then the next minute it shat the guts of the cat out my rear can :P

JK

Gents,

I heard several years ago of an instance where an RB/SR powered vehicle was on the dyno and the power level kept changing. After an exhaustive search and much hair pulling it was discovered the key in the cam which locates the CAS had broken causing the timing to constantly change.

I would like to think this is an extremely rare problem but for the sake of 10mins it is probably worth checking. Inspect the CAS key and the cam key.

To check if the above theory has any merit you can adjust the CAS to adjust the timing and confirm the setting with a timing light. Take the car for a run and check the timing again when it starts playing up.

Some food for thought.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...