Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Turbo, What Needs To Be Done

Kaido_RR

By Kaido_RR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Im going to replace my turbo this weekend and i was wondering if there anything i should change when chaning the turbo, so far i have the gasket, and engine oil.

Should i replace all the bolt and nuts when changing the turbo and if so where can i get some from? (are they just normal nuts and bolts u get from down at your hardware shop?)

Also any adivce you could give me when changing the the turbo would be awsome

p.s the car is an r33 gts-t

thanks Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82699-changing-turbo-what-needs-to-be-done/
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

You will need coolant as the radiator will drain out.

GAsket for the oil line. New copper washers for the oil and water lines, which are 3 different sizes and hard to find.

If you don't put new washers you can get leaks because you tighten the bolts up to line the holes up to allow the fluids through which may not necessarily be as tight as they can go with old copper washers.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You will need coolant as the radiator will drain out.

GAsket for the oil line. New copper washers for the oil and water lines, which are 3 different sizes and hard to find.

If you don't put new washers you can get leaks because you tighten the bolts up to line the holes up to allow the fluids through which may not necessarily be as tight as they can go with old copper washers.

thanks Abo Bob,

Do you have any idea on the size of the washers (im usisng stock r33 lines)

I want to try and get everything before i pull the turbo apart

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted

i actually reused my old washers the last time i did it. now my turbo out again for the hybrid highflow turbo. It's all depending on the condition of the washers. But i would recommend to get new ones though but tight arse like me, i will have to keep my eyes out for leaks. :rolleyes: ...

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted
thanks Abo Bob,

Do you have any idea on the size of the washers (im usisng stock r33 lines)

I want to try and get everything before i pull the turbo apart

gts_evilution,

you need the copper washers: the stock washers are:

4 x 12mm int. diameter - 18mm ext. dia

2 x 14mm int. dia - 20mm ext. dia

4 x 18mm int. dia - 24mm ext. dia. hope this will help! :)

igor Rising Star

igor

Posted
Posted

Doubt you could get them from the hardware shop. There is, however a joint in Parramatta that could match any bolt, nut or washer, cant remember their name. Pretty sure they are only open during business times. It's right opposite Parramatta Jail... I ll post the name when I remember.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, i change my turbo this weekend (saturday)

1st thing i would say is get copper washers, i reused mine and it resulted in my car leaking oil; change washer problem fix :D

Also it isnt really that hard to change the turbo on an rb25 once you get the I/C piping, AFM + piping off; its pretty easy :O

Also we didnt snap any bolts off or anything like that, just uses some CRC and they all came off nicely

Fastrotor Proficient

Fastrotor

Posted
Posted
ok, i change my turbo this weekend (saturday)

1st thing i would say is get copper washers, i reused mine and it resulted in my car leaking oil; change washer problem fix :)

Also it isnt really that hard to change the turbo on an rb25 once you get the I/C piping, AFM + piping off; its pretty easy :)

Also we didnt snap any bolts off or anything like that, just uses some CRC and they all came off nicely

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ??

Its so easy, i do it all the time. Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot.

Don't use an oxy, as they will melt........... also dont try this on aluminium ones....

Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more.

Hope it helps.

Gary

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted

Truely sounds like more trouble than its actually worth. Not to mention, not everyone has access to tools like that, so best bet to be safe and just buy new ones, meh, they cant be that expensive really.

And with the bolts, maybe give nissan a call, although they can be pretty useless at times, you will definitaly need hightensile bolts, and they will be of a fine thread. If you cant find the bolts, in the end, rip one out on a weekday during the day, go down to a bolt shop and say, i want x amount of these, gimme, and well if they dont have them they will order them in. Go whack the bolt back in. and let everyone else know wot size they are :P

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ??

Its so easy, i do it all the time.    Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot.

Don't use an oxy, as they will melt...........  also dont try this on aluminium ones....

Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more.

Hope it helps.

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I mean this in no disrespect to u mate; Are there clear tagged examples/explanations in our SAU forum for example, in my interest, this is how to do R34 Gtt suspension the right way? U guys did so much taking risks with experimentation that deserves recognition and those results helps us morons take the RIGHT path to buy quality / buy once. 🍻
    • Murray_Calavera
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
×
×
  • Create New...