Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Im going to replace my turbo this weekend and i was wondering if there anything i should change when chaning the turbo, so far i have the gasket, and engine oil.

Should i replace all the bolt and nuts when changing the turbo and if so where can i get some from? (are they just normal nuts and bolts u get from down at your hardware shop?)

Also any adivce you could give me when changing the the turbo would be awsome

p.s the car is an r33 gts-t

thanks Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82699-changing-turbo-what-needs-to-be-done/
Share on other sites

You will need coolant as the radiator will drain out.

GAsket for the oil line. New copper washers for the oil and water lines, which are 3 different sizes and hard to find.

If you don't put new washers you can get leaks because you tighten the bolts up to line the holes up to allow the fluids through which may not necessarily be as tight as they can go with old copper washers.

You will need coolant as the radiator will drain out.

GAsket for the oil line. New copper washers for the oil and water lines, which are 3 different sizes and hard to find.

If you don't put new washers you can get leaks because you tighten the bolts up to line the holes up to allow the fluids through which may not necessarily be as tight as they can go with old copper washers.

thanks Abo Bob,

Do you have any idea on the size of the washers (im usisng stock r33 lines)

I want to try and get everything before i pull the turbo apart

i actually reused my old washers the last time i did it. now my turbo out again for the hybrid highflow turbo. It's all depending on the condition of the washers. But i would recommend to get new ones though but tight arse like me, i will have to keep my eyes out for leaks. :rolleyes: ...

thanks Abo Bob,

Do you have any idea on the size of the washers (im usisng stock r33 lines)

I want to try and get everything before i pull the turbo apart

gts_evilution,

you need the copper washers: the stock washers are:

4 x 12mm int. diameter - 18mm ext. dia

2 x 14mm int. dia - 20mm ext. dia

4 x 18mm int. dia - 24mm ext. dia. hope this will help! :)

Doubt you could get them from the hardware shop. There is, however a joint in Parramatta that could match any bolt, nut or washer, cant remember their name. Pretty sure they are only open during business times. It's right opposite Parramatta Jail... I ll post the name when I remember.

ok, i change my turbo this weekend (saturday)

1st thing i would say is get copper washers, i reused mine and it resulted in my car leaking oil; change washer problem fix :D

Also it isnt really that hard to change the turbo on an rb25 once you get the I/C piping, AFM + piping off; its pretty easy :O

Also we didnt snap any bolts off or anything like that, just uses some CRC and they all came off nicely

ok, i change my turbo this weekend (saturday)

1st thing i would say is get copper washers, i reused mine and it resulted in my car leaking oil; change washer problem fix :)

Also it isnt really that hard to change the turbo on an rb25 once you get the I/C piping, AFM + piping off; its pretty easy :)

Also we didnt snap any bolts off or anything like that, just uses some CRC and they all came off nicely

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ??

Its so easy, i do it all the time. Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot.

Don't use an oxy, as they will melt........... also dont try this on aluminium ones....

Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more.

Hope it helps.

Gary

Truely sounds like more trouble than its actually worth. Not to mention, not everyone has access to tools like that, so best bet to be safe and just buy new ones, meh, they cant be that expensive really.

And with the bolts, maybe give nissan a call, although they can be pretty useless at times, you will definitaly need hightensile bolts, and they will be of a fine thread. If you cant find the bolts, in the end, rip one out on a weekday during the day, go down to a bolt shop and say, i want x amount of these, gimme, and well if they dont have them they will order them in. Go whack the bolt back in. and let everyone else know wot size they are :P

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ??

Its so easy, i do it all the time.    Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot.

Don't use an oxy, as they will melt...........  also dont try this on aluminium ones....

Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more.

Hope it helps.

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
    • yeah, there's a country that recently started importing Skylines, I blame them.
    • I don't have a printer, but could at least attempt to make a printable model.
×
×
  • Create New...