Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

saw this on the SDU site thought you might be interested

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...&threadid=45316

shame the pictures dont show how long the runners are from the plenum ...

Neat looking plenum though!

I would not waste time let alone money bolting that thing onto an RB26 . As has been said before show us an across the board gain and it'll sell . I think they're hideous looking things and a better all round result would come from std bits . If they can prove to function better I'l gladly eat my words .

Cheers A

This is the response I put up on SDU;

Pardon me for being sceptical, but I have tried a number of aftermarket plenums and most give an average power LOSS. Some are only barely as good as standard. I have not found one that actually gives a power increase.

So, do you have any dyno graphs showing before and after dyno results? No other mods, just the plenum and relevant pipework change.

PS; if you haven't done a back to back dyno test, I strongly suggest you do. Otherwise you will get nothing but grief from the sceptics who have been burnt by others.

you can buy the kits off ebay (US) for around $US200. I had one welded for a customer and they are a crap quality cast with plenty of pin holes and the bellmouths were also cast, measuring 25-30mm in length.

total costs if you were to buy one in pieces and have it welded you could saves yourself $150-$200.

not worth the hassle. there are "other" optins out there with a superior finish and proven performance for an extra $200-$300

Jap Performance's reply to SK:

Sydneykid - on a completely stock std vehicle there will not be any benefit and more than likely loose power, the reason should be pretty simple.

...is the simple answer is that they are no good? seems like an empty response that doesn't answer any questions, to me...

Jap Performance's reply to SK:

Sydneykid - on a completely stock std vehicle there will not be any benefit and more than likely loose power, the reason should be pretty simple.

...is the simple answer is that they are no good? seems like an empty response that doesn't answer any questions, to me...

I think he thought I meant that the car was to have no mods before the plenum was fitted ie; standard. :(:O

What I meant was no mods after the plenum was fitted, ie; just a simple before and after comparison of what the plenum did for a car that alreay had mods. : :)

I would not waste time let alone money bolting that thing onto an RB26 . As has been said before show us an across the board gain and it'll sell . I think they're hideous looking things and a better all round result would come from std bits . If they can prove to function better I'l gladly eat my words .

Cheers  A

My comment was made regarding its aesthetics. I totally agree I would not consider using this plenum.

Gary, what do you think about the JUN plenum?

My 2 bobs worth on that plenum assy.

It looks all wrong. It's angle relative to the direction the airflow has to travell is too severe to me. It may have the actual correct plenum area, but just not put in a practical position. No.1 cylinder would get a different air signal than No.6 cylinder, wich means you'll have to run an ECU that trims injectors for deficient balance of the engines breathing hardware, which is a bandaid approach for a balanced setup.

And the 80 or so mm throttle body mount is in my opinion way too large for an RB20/25.

That's my thoughts on these type of plenum assemblies. And the fact that they are so much money to buy. Waste of time.

I have a modified stock plenum assembly on my race car, check that out on my RB Racing post soon.

Turbine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...