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Suspension Advice Needed

Lazy-Bastard
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Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
Posted

I need the opinion of someone with good chassis and suspension knowledge (SK? :rofl: ) to lend a hand with an issue I have.

The car is an R33 GTST which already had Teins installed when I got it. They are set reasonably low and I have tried raising them but couldn't get them to budge, even with the proper C spanners.

Due to the height of the car, the negative camber on the rear was pretty shocking, so I have installed a set of "JIC style" camber arms.

I also had to replace a rear wheel bearing on the driver side, so did that while I was at it and then went to Bob Jane and had a wheel alignment done.

I noticed when I got home after the wheel alignment that the LHR wheel sits out further than the RHR wheel (the one where I replaced the wheel bearing).

I have attached 3 pictures, 1 down the left side, 1 down the right side and a scan of the wheel alignment printout. Can someone knowledgable have a look at them and see if anything glaringly obvious is wrong.

My main concern is that the chassis is bent, but I always expect the worst.

My other thoughts are:

1. the new wheel bearing is narrower than the original, or

2: maybe I should have bought the traction rods that are "supposed" to be used with the camber arms. Perhaps they have a bearing on how far out the wheel sits.

Hopefully someone can offer an informed opinion and clear this up.

Thanks

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I need the opinion of someone with good chassis and suspension knowledge (SK? :D ) to lend a hand with an issue I have.

The car is an R33 GTST which already had Teins installed when I got it.  They are set reasonably low and I have tried raising them but couldn't get them to budge, even with the proper C spanners.

Due to the height of the car, the negative camber on the rear was pretty shocking, so I have installed a set of "JIC style" camber arms.

I also had to replace a rear wheel bearing on the driver side, so did that while I was at it and then went to Bob Jane and had a wheel alignment done.

I noticed when I got home after the wheel alignment that the LHR wheel sits out further than the RHR wheel (the one where I replaced the wheel bearing).

I have attached 3 pictures, 1 down the left side, 1 down the right side and a scan of the wheel alignment printout.  Can someone knowledgable have a look at them and see if anything glaringly obvious is wrong.

My main concern is that the chassis is bent, but I always expect the worst. 

My other thoughts are:

1. the new wheel bearing is narrower than the original, or

2: maybe I should have bought the traction rods that are "supposed" to be used with the camber arms.  Perhaps they have a bearing on how far out the wheel sits.

Hopefully someone can offer an informed opinion and clear this up.

Thanks

It's got 1 degree negative camber on the LHS and 0.5 degrees negative on the RHS. What sort of suspension shop did you get to align it and then they left it that far out? Shoot the front (2 and 1.3) is just as bad.

Take it back and get them to do it properly :rofl:;)

PS; spray some RP7 on the threads and get those adjusters working. You might have ot remove them and stick them in the vice to get them to shift initially. Once you have them loose, work them up and down a few times, keep spraying the RP7. Then once a month respray them with RP7.

PPS; Actually they're Teins, throw them in the bin and get something decent. :D:D:D

Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It's got 1 degree negative camber on the LHS and 0.5 degrees negative on the RHS.  What sort of suspension shop did you get to align it and then they left it that far out? Shoot the front (2 and 1.3) is just as bad.

Take it back and get them to do it properly :rofl:  ;)

PS; spray some RP7 on the threads and get those adjusters working.  You might have ot remove them and stick them in the vice to get them to shift initially.  Once you have them loose, work them up and down a few times, keep spraying the RP7.  Then once a month respray them with RP7.

PPS; Actually they're Teins, throw them in the bin and get something decent. :D  :D  :D

OK, so the people at Bob Jane need to be shot.

What about the left hand wheel sitting further out than the right?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
OK, so the people at Bob Jane need to be shot.

What about the left hand wheel sitting further out than the right?

Get them to check the sub frame alignment at the same time.

Bob Jane :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Take it to a decent suspension shop .............please................

Where abouts do you live, and I might be able to recommend someone who is worthwhile. :(

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Yeah I agree with SK. Those after alignment specs are pretty darn worrying. And why did they insist on positive toe on front and back? Haha I bet the car probably doesnt wanna drive too straight.

I'd probably shoot for about -1mm total toe in on the rear, and neutral toe on the front.

Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah I agree with SK. Those after alignment specs are pretty darn worrying. And why did they insist on positive toe on front and back? Haha I bet the car probably doesnt wanna drive too straight.

I'd probably shoot for about -1mm total toe in on the rear, and neutral toe on the front.

Te car is actually handling a lot better than it used to, so it must have had some pretty shocking alignment settings previously.

My main concern is the rear wheels not sitting symmetrically with the body, as seen in the photos.

At the moment, when I take a fast right hander and load up the left side of the car, when I hit a dip in the road, the rear left tyre is scrubbing on the wheel arch and chewing out the tyre.

I haven't had time to get the subframe alignment checked yet but hopefully when I do, that will sort the problem.

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