Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a few spots left for the drift comp at wanneroo 30 sept, they will be having a practice this friday, 5 hours on the track for only $40!

then the comp itself, $100. So all in all, 2 track days for $140 - not bad at all.

If you are intested, give Benara Rd Autos a call on 0414 990 254 to reserve a spot, but be quick or you will miss out.

Edited by Steve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82886-drift-day-at-collie-an-alternative/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 116
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Put me down definately for sure. The event was originally booked out before was it not? Because I looked into this a couple of months back when it was first announced and could not find a spot because it was booked out completely. If there is a spot available I am in.

PM sent

ah, given that the all fours and tenagah weekend just got postphoned again, and it was due to run on the 20th/21st of this month, i wouldn't get your hopes too high on it holding firm, that said, ill probably be keen for a couple of spots, if it all happens to plan

This will be run in a similar way to the events I have been to in SA, ie all cars on the track, then let through one at a time to control space between drivers.

This will enable everyone to get a decent run, regardless of skill level and you dont have to worry about running in too close to the guy in front, nor some one running into you.

Good stuff, but bear in mind there will be ppl of different skill levels and those travelling faster will catch up the slower ppl, so from previous experience its best to sort ppl into groups according to skill. Otherwise you get those more so learning gettin pressure from behind and those who are more competant get pisd at being stuck at certain points where they can't overtake.

Other than that, should be good - as long as the track is ready. We've had numerous setbacks with the Tenagah drift day. Like Denver said, it was finally meant to be on the 21 August but it will be set back again.

-Lauren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
  • Create New...