Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol... narkehh! it can be a 'low mount turbo' if it's mounted on a low-mount manifold you goose. Same goes for a high mount manifold.  The manifold determines your turbo mounting position, not the turbo itself! provided you have the space required of course..

HAHA ok cool... well thats ok then... why does every one opt for a high mount all the time then? i know i would prefer it to be less obvious... then again i guess im more secure in my hetrosexuality and penis size then those opting to show as much off as possible :mellow:

HAHA ok cool... well thats ok then... why does every one opt for a high mount all the time then? i know i would prefer it to be less obvious...
there's a few reasons, one is because the high mount is easier to access and work on than the low mount. It also allows you to display your big shiny fcuk off compressor wheel :blink:

The low-mount is stealth. Good for EPA inspections B)

then again i guess im more secure in my hetrosexuality and penis size then those opting to show as much off as possible :mellow:

LOL... yes I suppose Denham doesn't feel as secure as others. :lol:
there's a few reasons, one is because the high mount is easier to access and work on than the low mount. It also allows you to display your big shiny fcuk off compressor wheel :mellow:

The low-mount is stealth. Good for EPA inspections B)

LOL... yes I suppose Denham doesn't feel as secure as others.  :lol:

i see... so no real performance gains at all?

cheers... oh and again for the number :blink:

haha poor denham... its not all his fault tho... its all about genetics :)

there's a few reasons, one is because the high mount is easier to access and work on than the low mount. It also allows you to display your big shiny fcuk off compressor wheel :mellow:

The low-mount is stealth. Good for EPA inspections B)

LOL... yes I suppose Denham doesn't feel as secure as others.  :lol:

Dumbass u try low mounting my GT30 in my engine bay and tell you how successful u are.

It is also a waste of time high mounting a 2535 or 2540 as they are small and can still use the stock manifold

Dumbass u try low mounting my GT30 in my engine bay and tell you how successful u are.

It is also a waste of time high mounting a 2535 or 2540 as they are small and can still use the stock manifold

:mellow: theyre not small... theyre just small next to ur mammoth turbo lol

nark they are small man when comparing to the stock turbo side by side.

I measured the difference in size between the stock turbo and the 2530 and its like 2mm here and a couple there, bugger all really. The wastegate is much bigger though. The inlet neck is also better designed but overall, very little. I wasnt impressed.

Performance wise, the 2530 eats the stocky for breaky. It has so much midrange you can think you can take anyone on. Top end it falls over because its too small. My max power is at 5600rpm, after that you draw a straight horizontal line.

I would love to try something bigger, but i want a bolt on, something i dont have to piss fart around with dumps and inlets etc.

Robo, What about a HKS 2835.... they seem to make decent power...

Once my car is complete with an exhaust i mean, I would me more than happy to compare yours and mine...

At the moment it doesnt really feel like it is dropping of at all, and the dyno reflects that.. i dont know if it becuase i am only running 12psi, which may be the reason.

Robo, What about a HKS 2835.... they seem to make decent power...

Once my car is complete with an exhaust i mean, I would me more than happy to compare yours and mine...

At the moment it doesnt really feel like it is dropping of at all, and the dyno reflects that.. i dont know if it becuase i am only running 12psi, which may be the reason.

I had a garrett gt2835 in my hands last saturday at RUS's workshop on sat for an r32 rb20 when they were trying to bolt it on there as owner was told it was a straight fit turbo :P :P

Lets just say it still aint on there and custom mods to exhaust and intercooler piping needs to be made plus the comp and exhaust covers need to be rotated to match the stock turbo positions, and new oil and water lines are needed. It looked a nice size turbo tho

I had a garrett gt2835 in my hands last saturday at RUS's workshop on sat for an r32 rb20 when they were trying to bolt it on there as owner was told it was a straight fit turbo  :P :P

Lets just say it still aint on there and custom mods to exhaust and intercooler piping needs to be made plus the comp and exhaust covers need to be rotated to match the stock turbo positions, and new oil and water lines are needed. It looked a nice size turbo tho

isnt that what kyrz has? that thing aint small at all lol

but the GT2540s are a lot easier to fit right?

Chris is meant to have a hks 2835 pro s which would be modified to fit the oil/water, cooler/exhaust lines for the rb25 fittings.

The garrett ones you need to modify yourself to fit everything. Its still a tight fit on the stock manifold down there for that turbo.

2540 is piece of piss to install

Robo, What about a HKS 2835.... they seem to make decent power...

Once my car is complete with an exhaust i mean, I would me more than happy to compare yours and mine...

At the moment it doesnt really feel like it is dropping of at all, and the dyno reflects that.. i dont know if it becuase i am only running 12psi, which may be the reason.

Thats what i like to hear, a bit of competition

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...