Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been digging at this problem for a while. I have an R32 with RB25DET with most of the usual mods on it. The car never felt as fast as my old 32 with the RB20DET. I noticed a few strange sensor settings when I first bought the thing which led me on a wild goose chase. Making matters more difficult is the fact that the consult port isn't wired up and the ECU has no LED.

I never bothered to look at the knock sensors because I installed an SAFC and it was reading knock just fine (or so I thought). I finally looked under the manifold and whoa! the knock sensors have no wires coming out of them. I had to custom make a harness for them and plug them into the ECU since the engine install was a hatchet job, I wish I knew what shop did so I could avoid them in the future.

Long story short, I plugged the knock sensors into the harness and it pulls like a mule. I can't believe I didn't look sooner. So if anyone out there has symptoms that sound like mine, do yourself a favor and check out the knock sensors.

Sorry for the long post but I'm extremely happy right now :)

-Matt

hey, ive been trying to look for my knock sensors in my rb20 also, but i cant seem to find them. Can you explain roughly what they look like, a pic would be excellent.

thanx

I am no mechanic so my description may be a little off..

But im pretty sure on the RB20 they are on the side of the block under the intake manifold... as for looks you cant really see much from the out side.... but if i remember correctly they have a orange or red plug.. but theres a good chance i just made that up...

hehe.. have a hunt around there anyway. pretty sure you should find them :D

Sorry for lack of help but no one else has said anything so i thought i would give you a start :O

Cheers

hey, thanx memph :D , i had a look, but all i could find where these two things that went into the block that kinda looked like o2 sensors, probably about 3-4cm long and about 1-2cm in diameter, with a single wire coming out the top of them. Is that them?

I've been digging at this problem for a while.  I have an R32 with RB25DET with most of the usual mods on it.  The car never felt as fast as my old 32 with the RB20DET.  I noticed a few strange sensor settings when I first bought the thing which led me on a wild goose chase. Making matters more difficult is the fact that the consult port isn't wired up and the ECU has no LED. 

I never bothered to look at the knock sensors because I installed an SAFC and it was reading knock just fine (or so I thought).  I finally looked under the manifold and whoa! the knock sensors have no wires coming out of them.  I had to custom make a harness for them and plug them into the ECU since the engine install was a hatchet job, I wish I knew what shop did so I could avoid them in the future. 

Long story short, I plugged the knock sensors into the harness and it pulls like  a mule.  I can't believe I didn't look sooner.  So if anyone out there has symptoms that sound like mine, do yourself a favor and check out the knock sensors. 

Sorry for the long post but I'm extremely happy right now  :)

-Matt

glad u got it sorted. odd problem. what the safc showing for knock values?

glad u got it sorted. odd problem. what the safc showing for knock values?

Memp is correct on their location, as for color mine have a clear-ish plastic covered cap with the wire then the top of the sensors themselves are green with a rubber o-ring. They are little cylindicral jobs, #1 is between cyls 1 and 2, and #2 is between cyls 5 and 6. You can't really see them unless you take the intake manifold off. I was able to unsnap the connectors with everything on the car from the top, I did get scraped up a bit and I don't have HICAS so that makes it a lot easier.

I bought the car the way it is, it seems that whoever performed the motor swap didn't hook them up and tried to compensate by adjusting pretty much every other sensor. As soon as I got the car I started putting everything back to FSM spec and my performance went out the door. It's stronger than ever now though :)

The SAFC threw me because it was actually reading knock levels similar to what I was used to on an RB20DET so I didn't think anything of it. The car ran really well off the line (VVT I'm sure) and at low boost but after that the ECU would yank the timing out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
    • I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life.  There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.
    • Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.
    • Any recommendations for what would be the easiest welding type to start on, for sheet metal rust repairs and maybe some exhaust piping too? Seems like MIG is the most common. Would gasless MIG be ok to learn on and do some simple jobs? I have a stick welder which has a Lift TIG setting, but i'm more interested in getting whatever's easiest to do, and most suitable, rather than using what i have.
    • Is the UP Garage in the US of Ayyeee even the real UP Garage?
×
×
  • Create New...