Jump to content
SAU Community

What To Get


Recommended Posts

i'm not sure what to go for,a r32 non turbo or r33 non t,cos i heard about a few probs r32s have.i'm not that hungry for much power so that's why i might go non t.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There shouldnt be any problems with them at all the engine is near indestructable especially without a turbo.

The only reason I can see to want a non turbo skyline is for looks, so if its an R33 I'd get one with a bodykit or budget for one (roughly 1K to 1.5K) because they look like another family car without one.

The R32 actually looks pretty decent without a body kit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best looking R33 I've seen was a series 1.5 that was slightly lowered running 255 rear tyres on 17" rims. I didn't care to look what size the fronts were. I assume 245's.

Looked awesome. Rather tough looking to be honest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best looking R33 I've seen was a series 1.5 that was slightly lowered running 255 rear tyres on 17" rims. I didn't care to look what size the fronts were. I assume 245's.

Looked awesome. Rather tough looking to be honest.

what is a series 1.5 ?

isnt it just like series 1 and 2 etc? sorry, new to this stuff and keep seeing 1.5 everywhere :S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a r33 NA, and i baught it purly because it was my first car and i couldnt handle a turbo, its still plently fast and keeps up with most things (civic vtir's, integra vtirs) and thats about it... beats the commodores v6's and stuff... I can show you a picture or two of it if you'd like?? Theyre nice to drive and handles and goes better then my mates sr20de silvia

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you must go NA, try to find on of the late R32 GTS that came out with th e R33 NA RB25DE engine. You get the looks and light weight of the r32, with the extra capacity of the r33 engine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you must go NA, try to find on of the late R32 GTS that came out with th e R33 NA RB25DE engine.  You get the looks and light weight of the r32, with the extra capacity of the r33 engine!

And then if you blow up the bottom end sell it to some lucky user on this forum for there RB25/30 conversion!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey wor wor 2,

My cousin drives a N/A r33 an I can tell you that they do hold their own and are a comfortable ride. I'd also imagine the N/A's would have much better fuel consumption compared to a turbo. The only thing I don't like about them is they come with only 4 wheel studs. So it would be a bit of a hassle to find decent rims if you're looking at some bling.

Seriously though, a stock standard Gts-t isn't that powerful. My 33 has stock turbo etc. and I got used to driving it the day I brought it home from the dealer. I'll get into the modifying game as soon as I can afford it :P

See If you can have a test drive in both a N/A and a turbo and make up your mind. in my opinion, a turbo will be much more rewarding in the end :P If you do go with an N/A R33 make sure it has the RB25DE engine. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ha ha series 1.5...

its just a series 1 with some series 2 bits on it. at the end of the day its still a series 1... is a gts with gtr bits on it a gts/r? i don't think so

as for the topic question, there aren't really any inherant problems with the r32's. if you don't want a turbo then that's fine - you still get the looks and handling of the best value-for-money car, just without that punch of power.

as Rhett said, i would look for the R32 GTS25 which is basically a non-turbo R33 engine in the lighter (and better looking in my opinion) R32 shell

best of luck with your decision!

Warren

PS everyone is oing to give their own separate opinions here - no one is right they're just opinions. if you want advice then take it but make the decision yourself re looks and what features you want!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd also imagine the N/A's would have much better fuel consumption compared to a turbo.

Is this true??

Do an N/A R32 or R33 use less or the same amount of fuel than a Turbo R32/R33??

I have seen fuel consumption but that is only of turbos

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you may as well by a commodore if your gonna buy a non turbo skyline, the turbo R33's arent all that powerful that you cant handle them anyways, i got used of mine in a day, and before i got my car the only other turbo skyline i drove was a mate of mines round the block lol, so if you want an R33 or even R32 go turbo, you wont regret it......

unless you start modifying it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cars arent all about performance...

there's:

- looks

- comfort

- handling

- social status

- power

- torque

- finances

etc.

otherwise why are we all buying skylines when a VLT for the same price could probably run 11s?

seriously, a NA R32/R33 is a great looking and handling car with good torque and street credability...

be wise who's posts you read and take advice from and those which you know came from a 16 year old keyboard warrier...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

be wise who's posts you read and take advice from and those which you know came from a 16 year old keyboard warrier...

if your referring to me, i'd be 18 and im not a keyboard warrior, i was just stating my opinion, i believe that if you spent an extra 2 or 3 thousand and bought a turbo variant as opposed to naturally aspirated, you'd have a car that looks as good as it goes...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stop on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, you need to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
    • Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.
    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
×
×
  • Create New...