First Dyno Run With Stockish R33

[Smurf]

I had my first dyno run on Sat with my R33 GTS25T. I've had it for 4.5 years and finally got off my but to find out how much power it has. The only mods include a cat back exhaust and pod filter. There was only one run where the boost didn't spike to 9.5 psi (at which point all fuel was cut). On the one good run it managed 196.2 hp at the wheels so around 150kw. People have always said it runs well for a stockish 33 though it still seems a little high. It was done in shoot out mode. I don't know what this means though believe it increases the power.

Is the output normal?

They suggested that I get a front mount, fuel cut defender and boost controller as my first mods. Quoted me $3,000 (which sounds fair I think, I know it depends on brands and models). They indicated that the power at the wheels would increase to around 300 bhp. Does this sound right?

Cheers

[WazR32GTSt]

can you scan in the dyno graph?

if you shop around, youcan get a FMIC including piping for $600-700, and a necent manual boost controller for $50... see the for sale section for more info

i also think a dump/front pipe upgrade will serve you better than a FMIC at this stage

best of luck,

Warren

[nitemare5]

can you scan in the dyno graph?

if you shop around, youcan get a FMIC including piping for $600-700, and a necent manual boost controller for $50... see the for sale section for more info

i also think a dump/front pipe upgrade will serve you better than a FMIC at this stage

best of luck,

Warren

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I agree with Wazr32, I think completing the rest of the exhaust should be the next thing you should be looking at. BATMBL on these forums sells an awesome dump/front pipe and an excellent hi-flow cat which give you good gains at a top price. I don't think a fuel cut defender is necessary? better off saving the cash for some full (powerfc?) or piggyback (SAFC?) management . If you shop around there are some cheap fmic kits around so keep an eye out.

[rob1981]

Just jap are selling front mount for about $550 for SAU members if look in the for sale section. Get the FMIC, put it in your self, it is not hard at all, just need a few tools. some cutting and your set.

When i first got my car i had a cat back exhaust and pod, with a electronic boost controller.

I then put on a BOS import dump pipe and front pipe, and a 3 inch cat, and you could definately feel the power increase. a good dump and front pipe and cat should give you a few more HP.

If your on a budget get a stage 1 GFB boost controller or go all the way with a electronic one. Put the boost up to about 15psi and you will really be feeling the difference.

With thte FMIC, dump, cat and boost contoller, you should be content with the performance for a while.

[Andi]

As many others have said I'd go about getting the rest of the exhaust done first. Then think of going FMIC and Piggyback instead of the fuel cut defender. $3000 does sound abit dear depending on what intercooler and boost controller, but you can get a nice Turbotech from Mark for $35 delivered and FMIC kits (core + piping) for around the $600 mark.

[CAT_SPEW]

Nice power from a stocker B)

While we're on the topic, how much do you think it would cost me to get a tune with a set of 740cc injectors going in an RB25?

And would I be able to drive it to the shop after installing them for the tune??

[Beer Baron]

it will be a very special FMIC and FCD to get you over 100hp at the wheels.

Get the cheap cooler, finish the exhaust, get a bleed valve if you don't have one and don't but a FCD they are nasty. if you are on a budget get a jaycar DFA or Apexi SAFC, or if you have the $$ just buy a PFC.

in fact

PFC, dump and front pipe, FMIC and bleed valve will be under $3000 installed and tuned

[Dee 33]

Agree with everyone else. Finish that exhaust first (front/dump/hi flow cat) then think about getting cooler/boost/avcr all at the same time to keep everything running well.

300hpatw? Tell him he's dreaming...

That's about 220rwkw.

Edit: I think I'm having dejavu. I swear I've seen this thread before...

[Smurf]

Thanks guys and gals.

I suggested a dump pipe and Power FC. They said a dump pipe could reduce power and instead of PFC they mentioned another brand for around $2.5k fitted and would go on after the other mods. I sort of lost interest at this point.

Also what would be causing the boost spike given that I don't think there is a bleed valve or piggyback computer.

What is shoot out mode.

Cheers

[Andi]

Hahah dump pipe reduce power? What is he smoking?

PFC will be around $1000-12000 (estimating) and find a good well known tuner!! The ECU is only as good as the tuner!

[TTT]

Smurf.

where are you located?

if we know general area, people can recommend the best tuners they know in that city etc.

I'd definitely suggest a different one than the guy you are seeing now.

as suggested.

dump/front and cat from BATMBL

HYBRID cooler kit from Just Jap at SAU prices.

Power FC for R33's are everywhere.. surely they are close to about $1K without the controller.

manual boost controller

Tuning - $500

that would be about $2500 max. and would net you about another 50rwkw.

safely.

[nitemare5]

Thanks guys and gals.

I suggested a dump pipe and Power FC.  They said a dump pipe could reduce power and instead of PFC they mentioned another brand for around $2.5k fitted and would go on after the other mods.  I sort of lost interest at this point.

Also what would be causing the boost spike given that I don't think there is a bleed valve or piggyback computer.

What is shoot out mode.

Cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You might lose abit of response down low with the dump pipe, but the top end flow would easily compensate this plus more.

A powerfc if you shop around would be around $1k new (nengun) or cheaper 2nd hand. To install it is free if you know how to use a ratchet and only takes 10 minutes. Tuning, depending on where you go will vary from $500 to $700 for a base tune - also the powerfc can go with all the other mods you do in the future as well, injectors, a/m turbo etc etc.

shootout mode is when they take out some factors in calculating the estimated power your car has, like air temp and some other factors to give you a figure that you can compare with other people done on the same type of dyno that you went on.

Also I would not recommend 15 psi on the standard R33 turbo, as it will most likely blow a ceramic exhaust wheel into your cat. After a FMIC and exhaust you should run 12 psi max if you want to keep your standard turbo for a while.

hope this has pointed you in the right direction, have fun modding

[INASNT]

4.5 years and the first time on the dyno???

U lazy bastard

[Smurf]

once again, thanks for the replies.

i am in newcastle so if you know of any good tuners. there is one place that know skylines inside out i think (Turbo technics) however they want to sell me another type of computer that is around $2.5k. apparently that is normal as it is supposed to be much more advanced than the power fc.

how much power would a power fc plus boost up to 10psi acheive.

and yes i am a lazy bastard.

s out.

[paulr33]

You might lose abit of response down low with the dump pipe, but the top end flow would easily compensate this plus more.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i didnt notice any loss in respone when i went from stock to a 3" split dump pipe. in fact i gained power everywhere and the response and wind up time was better

[Ionos]

i didnt notice any loss in respone when i went from stock to a 3" split dump pipe. in fact i gained power everywhere and the response and wind up time was better

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A split dump would be better for low end pressure then a 3", because there would be a higher backpressure off boost due to the wastegate pipe being closed off.

[nitemare5]

i didnt notice any loss in respone when i went from stock to a 3" split dump pipe. in fact i gained power everywhere and the response and wind up time was better

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

hehe key word being might, a few people i know after fitting them got this result, but after they got a retune they achieved the same result as you.

[INASNT]

once again, thanks for the replies.

i am in newcastle so if you know of any good tuners.  there is one place that know skylines inside out i think (Turbo technics) however they want to sell me another type of computer that is around $2.5k.  apparently that is normal as it is supposed to be much more advanced than the power fc.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

2.5k computer??

Must be a motec or autronic or something else hardcore which you will have no use for.

[WazR32GTSt]

for 2.5K the ECU would want to tune itself... he he

seriously though, finish off the exhaust and get a cheap FMIC and piping kit. and do yourself (and your wallet) a favour and get a new mechanic/tuner!

Warren.

[nitemare5]

once again, thanks for the replies.

i am in newcastle so if you know of any good tuners.  there is one place that know skylines inside out i think (Turbo technics) however they want to sell me another type of computer that is around $2.5k.  apparently that is normal as it is supposed to be much more advanced than the power fc.

how much power would a power fc plus boost up to 10psi acheive.

and yes i am a lazy bastard.

s out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You will not see 1rwkw more from using such a hardcore ECU (probably autronic or motec like INASNT suggested) then from the powerfc (providing that the tuner is confident and has good experience with both ecus). Especially at your stage, I can't see why you need to spend that extra on the ECU, with the money you save from getting the powerfc you could get other parts that can make your car EVEN better. But each to your own, if you are confident in your tuners ability and he is confident in that ECU, it would probably be best to do what he recommends - as they say, the ECU is only as good as your tuner.