Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

My R33 has a leak from the heater core located under the dash on the passenger side. Noticed the leak while I had the Air-con on and a smell of coolant inside the cabin.

Does anyone have any experience in removing the heater core. Basically I want to know does the whole dash need to be removed or is it sufficient to remove the glove box section to work on the heater core.

Any advice is appreciated.

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83317-heater-core-leaking-r33/
Share on other sites

Whole dash has to come out, allow 2-4 hours to do it.

There is a detailed guide on how to do it on here by predator i think... have a search... follow that guide. Here are his photos he refers too (the photos died from the posts ages ago): http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

I've done it a couple of times. Go buy a brand new natrad heater core from your local natrad dealer, cost you <$200. Good luck :)

Out of curiosity, how did you notice the coolant leaking? Did the passenger side footwell fill up with coolant, or did it run under the carpet?

I could smell the coolant first, then I saw the passenger floor mat wet with coolant. As I investigated further I also noticed coolant was going under the carpet.

Whole dash has to come out, allow 2-4 hours to do it.

There is a detailed guide on how to do it on here by predator i think... have a search... follow that guide. Here are his photos he refers too (the photos died from the posts ages ago): http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

I've done it a couple of times. Go buy a brand new natrad heater core from your local natrad dealer, cost you <$200. Good luck :P

Thanks for the advice and photos, job doesn't look easy so I am not looking forward to it!!

Its not as hard as it looks, lots of wires make it look scarey but hardest part is remembering which bolts go back where. If you really cant remember, grab a bunch of envolopes and label them with the bolts in so you know where they go back ;)

ive got same problem.. ive started undoing the bits and pieces from the 32.. but have a feeling its gonna be sitting there for quite a while longer -_-

i thought it coulda been the pipes leaking but from the pics just seems like probbably leaking from core wihch will again cost abit to purchase another one. doh

good luck dude

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's (the TPS) buzzing? Or something else is buzzing in response? Remove the IACV from the plenum. Block the hole into the plenum with your hand. Get someone to start the car. Let some air is. Do the revs flare up? This is checking that the path into the plenum is clean. After that, is the air hose leading to the IACV fuly clear? After that, either you didn't clean it thoroughly enough to allow the valve to move, or it is broken.  
    • Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...