Gtr Turbo Upgrade For 340rwkw

[druzilla32]

From my Experience so far Factory ECU does not like Turbo upgrades to much, Mine runs a pair of GT2560Rs, Trust Greddy Dumps and front pipe, 14psi and gets 315rwHP.

Runs extremely rich over 5000rpm, restricting power.

For me now to get 450rwHP (similar to your goal) I would require a PowerFC and some larger injectors (probably SARD 700cc) and some adjustable cam gears, add a more boost she'll hit 450

All up in parts alone you'd be looking at around $6500.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

well after rebuild i will have around 5000 for the turbo upgrade.

i will be getting ecu at the same time to eliminate the need for AFM's

i will also be running only 12psi until the motor has run in, so wont need injectors for another few months

[druzilla32]

ok,

say i get the GT35

what sort of bottom end work will i need?

I have Arias Forged pistons

will i need forged rods?

standard camshaft fine?

the bottom end build starts tomorrow

[pnblight]

well after rebuild i will have around 5000 for the turbo upgrade.

i will be getting ecu at the same time to eliminate the need for AFM's

i will also be running only 12psi until the motor has run in, so wont need injectors for another few months

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

twin gt2560r are the go

last car i put together with these turbos and small cams and pfc

made 510rwhp at 15.8psi with raser sharp throddle responsive the only reson it was tuned down to under 16psi was it madent had the new nismo pump fitted yet (it made 524at just on 17psi) and was boarding on the limit of the std fuel pump.

as stated earlier you can get gt2560r ~$2500 and add ~$1000 for pfc and about $300 for rb20/25 afms ,~$700 700cc injectors sard your in business. You'll make 400 to mid 400's with out cams but through a good set of cams in the mix and you should be aroung the 500rwhp.

I personally haven't seen a better on the street combo than this for all round performance(responce verse out right hp)

my 2c

[R31Nismoid]

stock rods etc are fine upto 450rwkw

[manage13]

Hey pnblight,

Using the 2560 turbos what is the largest cam lift and duration you would go?

[Snowman]

My advice if you go for low mounts is to save the money from the dumps and get the injectors straight away.

Still no proof dumps do anything really that I've seen.

Also - stock fuel pump ok for upto 350rwkw's.

For refernce I'm running twin 2530's with Sard 700cc injectors - stock fuel pump - stock dumps - making 325rwkw's @ 19psi (stock bottom end).

But also had to upgrade the AFM's (am running Nismo's).

Have fun.

[lwells]

My advice if you go for low mounts is to save the money from the dumps and get the injectors straight away.

Still no proof dumps do anything really that I've seen.

Also - stock fuel pump ok for upto 350rwkw's.

For refernce I'm running twin 2530's with Sard 700cc injectors - stock fuel pump - stock dumps - making 325rwkw's @ 19psi (stock bottom end).

But also had to upgrade the AFM's (am running Nismo's).

Have fun.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I remember SK saying he tested a split dump/front setup and it brought boost on a good 300RPM earlier. If you have a R34 (as per your sig), they run a better dump than the R32/33 so the advantages of aftermarket dumps will be smaller.

[pnblight]

Hey pnblight,

Using the 2560 turbos what is the largest cam lift and duration you would go?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Good question, I have been concidering trying some more aggressive cams in mine when i do a full rebuild next month( going full internals) BUT the result i achieved with the r34 vspec i mention aboved were quiet awesome. The tomei poncams stage 2 are simple an awesome on road package (as they bolt straight in and give great results) I have yet to find the limits of the gt2560r's yet but i believe i must be getting close to there peak performance (i stopped tuning mine at 500rwhp as it had std internals and r34 is a brand new motor and is only running 15.8psi at 510rwhp) make you wounder what is posible from it at 20psi plus and some cam timing.(Garret australia tells me the turbines are good for 2 bar but i doubt the actuators would hold that).

I personaly dont think i would go past 10.8mm lift and around the 260 to 270 deg depending on application (but with the extra lift you need to do a number of head mods , cam cap retaining studs upgrade, valve springs upgrade , lomb clearance machined to state a few. So the question is will you gain much from larger cams from these turbos ? most likely not over the simple poncam combination, so valve for money it most likely not worth the effort.

pete

ps does that answer what you wanted to know

[manage13]

ps does that answer what you wanted to know

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yea does, thanks Pete. Just wondering as that is pretty much the same for a set of 2530's as well. Anything over the 10.8 is a bit

[Lukus]

Some interesting numbers being thrown around. Was assured 350kw @ the wheels was the limit of the stock rods. I'm looking at buying an R32 with 63,000km on it, which is fitted with GT2530's, Mine's dump pipes, high flow 3 inch cat and continues at 3 inch all the way back, stock remapped ECU, stock injectors and pump, upgraded FPR, stock cams and gears and runs about 13 psi. Makes close to 250kw @ the wheels. Was planning to change pump (Bosch 040), injectors (SARD 600cc), AFM's (Nismo), ECU (PFC), cam gears (Some sort of name brand, whatever looks hot) and maybe cams (Tomei Pon).

As i said, i was assured this would bend rods. I expect this combination would make around 350-375kw @ the wheels on 22 psi or so (correct me if i'm wrong), but would it live with day to day driving? And would the stock internals handle the load?

Sorry if i'm completely wrong. I'm pretty new to these cars...

[GTRsean]

Some interesting numbers being thrown around. Was assured 350kw @ the wheels was the limit of the stock rods. I'm looking at buying an R32 with 63,000km on it, which is fitted with GT2530's, Mine's dump pipes, high flow 3 inch cat and continues at 3 inch all the way back, stock remapped ECU, stock injectors and pump, upgraded FPR, stock cams and gears and runs about 13 psi. Makes close to 250kw @ the wheels. Was planning to change pump (Bosch 040), injectors (SARD 600cc), AFM's (Nismo), ECU (PFC), cam gears (Some sort of name brand, whatever looks hot) and maybe cams (Tomei Pon).

As i said, i was assured this would bend rods. I expect this combination would make around 350-375kw @ the wheels on 22 psi or so (correct me if i'm wrong), but would it live with day to day driving? And would the stock internals handle the load?

Sorry if i'm completely wrong. I'm pretty new to these cars...

What I've read over the years: Roughly speaking.

Stock pistons, 600Hp crank

Rods, 600-700 Hp at the crank

Lots of revs and detonation, poor tuning will kill stuff quicker, so many variables.

[rb26s13]

you want big single and 350awkw? go a hks t04z kit.. from nengun.. comes with absolutely everything needed for the big single upgrade and fairly decent price for a hks kit

also why get rid of the afm's? they arent a restriction.. just run 2 z32 afm's and you'll be fine.. and its the simplest computer to install in any of these imports.. would you rather pay 1000 for a power fc and do the install yourself than go get it tuned.. or would you rather pay 1800 for a haltech than on top of that pay for it to be installed than still have to get it tuned? if you really want to get rid of the afm's go a power fc dejetro by far the best option out there for those 'afm' hating people with jap cars..

Edited June 3, 2006 by rb26s13

[rb26s13]

on another note.. tune agent does GT35r's for around 1750 deliverd from memory.. and ray hall turbocharging in cairns can do them for a similar price if you'd like rayhalls number or email try www.turbofast.com.au

[R31Nismoid]

As i said, i was assured this would bend rods. I expect this combination would make around 350-375kw @ the wheels on 22 psi or so (correct me if i'm wrong), but would it live with day to day driving? And would the stock internals handle the load?

Dont go back to the place that assured you that the rods will bend.

Because they obviously dont know what they are doing

Stock motor wont live forever @ 350rwkw, many circuit RB26's live a few years.

Just budget for a rebuild eventually.

All you need is a set of pistons in there really and tidy everything up, put it back together.

Things like crank collar etc etc etc.

Just the little things that add up.

Stock crank & rods will be perfectly fine

[Lukus]

Dont go back to the place that assured you that the rods will bend.

Because they obviously dont know what they are doing

Stock motor wont live forever @ 350rwkw, many circuit RB26's live a few years.

Just budget for a rebuild eventually.

All you need is a set of pistons in there really and tidy everything up, put it back together.

Things like crank collar etc etc etc.

Just the little things that add up.

Stock crank & rods will be perfectly fine

A guy i work with came out with that statement that 350kw was about the limit. I understand a stock motor, if it was abused and revved to redline often, would not last long (probably 3-6 months like most engines). But i can't see how 350kw would be unreliable if it was driven to work and back, with a bit of fun on the weekend for 2 or 3 years. I don't intend on thrashing the car. It's too nice to do it to. And obviously it's not going to be making huge power all of the time. Boost would be wound back for the daily commute, and wound up a bit if some fun was required. I think it'd be safe to say if the compression is good, and the leak down test looks ok, that it should handle a bit of power for a while? I don't think i'll keep the car for 10 years or so because there are other cars i'd like to own in this life time as well. But i don't want to thrash and abuse it and flog it in 3 months.

I'd prefer not to have to rebuild it. I actually work with a guy who did his apprenticeship at Nissan and has rebuilt GTR motors. And being a mechanic by trade, it wouldn't be too bad if i had to rebuild it myself.

[R31Nismoid]

If its the odd blast, it will last definately as you say.

Generally thats how it goes. Extended use (track/drag/high.constant RPM cars) sees motors die a lot faster.

Depends on the use of the car really.

If your streeting only, just spend the $$$ to have it tuned correctly. Thats what will save the motor and i should be ok for the odd squirt. Just dont have an extended squirt

Its when you hit the track (circuit/drag) that youll shorten the life.

[Swiper the Fox]

stock rods etc are fine upto 450rwkw

Spot on Ash

We made over 460awkw a couple of weeks ago on stock rods...just make sure they are serviceable and suitable aftermarket rod bolts are used. Ive never heard of an RB26 stock rod failure due to its weakness, generally its another cause that causes it to fail.

[R31Nismoid]

Funny you mention that Paul, where i take my car (as you know) never seen a rod spit either

It the bolts themselves that go first i believe, and then its not the rod that actually breaks. Its the tuning or similar that stresses it to a point of fauile, not a part fauile itself

[Lukus]

If its the odd blast, it will last definately as you say.

Generally thats how it goes. Extended use (track/drag/high.constant RPM cars) sees motors die a lot faster.

Depends on the use of the car really.

If your streeting only, just spend the $$$ to have it tuned correctly. Thats what will save the motor and i should be ok for the odd squirt. Just dont have an extended squirt

Its when you hit the track (circuit/drag) that youll shorten the life.

I'm new to these RB's, but i've been reading alot. Common sense told me these engines are the same as everything else. Keep good oil in it, make sure oil pressure and compression is ok (and combustion chamber sealing), keep it cool, don't over rev or use to much boost and it will last. Sounds good. At the moment, the car will be just a street car. I may take it to a track day to have a play, but wouldn't get too serious until i have replaced the oil pump and water pump with N1 units. The timing belt has just been replaced on the one i'm looking at buying which sucks. If i knew it was going to be for sale, i would've paid to get them replaced at the same time seeing as i'm probably going to buy it. Will be interesting to get the scope down the plug hole and see what it looks like. Should tell me alot!

I guess a more regular problem with that sort of power level is oil and water pump? Or is that more to do with rpm than power? How hard is the oil pump to replace?

How easy are rod bolts to replace? Sump off, remove and replace? I guess you'd replace bearings while you were there?

[Swiper the Fox]

How hard is the oil pump to replace?

Simple...once you pull the engine out.

My tip...if the thing is seeing work (i.e. track or drag) pull the engine and freshen it up with new bearings, rings, rod bolts etc...do your oil and water pumps and you will see the engine live a happy thrashing day after day. If you dont do it beforehand you will later (when it fails) and may break you budget a lot harder.