Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI

i've brought one of the TURBOTECH manual boost controller of the forum

i've tryed installing it, but i must be connecting it up wrong because the boost just goes nuts, (don't worry i pulled my foot of the throttle soon as i saw it go past 1 bar)

i've been using a normal bleed valve, i heard this was better the turbotech was better, better Response and spool up etc

Can someone clarify how to connect it up on r33 skyline, I’ve read the other posts about installing it can’t seem to get it

The instructions say connect one end of the boostcontoler to the turbo actuator, then have tee piece off the other end connecting to the turbo and the blow off valve

First of all what is the other line to the turbo, I though there was only one that goes to the turbo actuator

And for the blow off valve can that line just be connected to the intercooler piping???

Any more help would be very appreciated

Cheers

You want it to go between the intercooler return pipe and the actuator, replacing the t-piece that runs up to the stock boost solenoid. You can then remove the solenoid, and plug up the remaining hose.

Let me know if you have any dramas...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...