Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oi i was gonna say the blitz sbc id3

or u can also go the hks evc iv

seriously, go look at the information for all of the mentioned boost controllers, then see which one suits u, and u like the look of, depending on price also, u can also get the ricey sbc color.

meh.

oi i was gonna say the blitz sbc id3

or u can also go the hks evc iv

seriously, go look at the information for all of the mentioned boost controllers, then see which one suits u, and u like the look of, depending on price also, u can also get the ricey sbc color.

meh.

so u reckon they are better that avc-r or profec - e?

What about the Hybrid 2-stage electronic boost control?

Has anyone got anything good to say about that little gadget? I bought one simply because it was a good 'cheap' price for a EBC.

Brendan

Yeah and despite those features they are still a pain in the ass to use and still dont hold boost better than a decent bleeder IMO!!! Go the Blitz...

...i no longer use an AVC-R, but did for 3-4 years with both the std turbo and a Trust turbo. The thing worked extremely well, never spiked, held stable boost. I was vert happy with it.

There have been several instances where ppl claim they have not worked...i just cannot understand how this can be the case. If you understand how they work (which aint rocket science, just read the manual) then they are even easy to setup. The instances where they have not worked 100% have usually been traced back to not being installed correctly, with wrong diameter hose, undesirably long lengths of the incorrect diam hose etc, its debatable whether any EBC woudl work optimally if installed in the same manner?!?!?!?!?!?!?

And they are a very flexible EBC, and the variabel duty cycle works very well as my std wastegate presssure is 0.65bar, and with the AVC-R set to 1.25bar it held boost just fine. So thats 9psi to 18psi and it managed to control boost. Others seem to say that its very difficult for an EBC to increase boost so much beyond what std spring pressure is, AVC-R did it.

Who gives a shit about a gain function when there is a PID loop trimming the boost to the desired level. This is how the autronic boost controller tables work and it is well impressive.

What you really want is a boost MAP, RPM vs Load just like any fuel or timing MAP. This way you can eliminate the wastegate cracking to early.

I dont think you can compare a bleeder vavle to a ebc. ie if your wastegate spring tension is 8psi and you want to run 15-20psi how is a bleeder going to hold the boost further along in the rev range when more and more pressure needs to be bled from the actuator?

If only everything was linear eh..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...