Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help for the searchers, alternate names.

Oxygen Sensor, Lambda Sensor, O2 sensor, A/F Ratio Sensor, Narrow and Slow A/F Ratio Sensor, Not a Fast and Wide Lambda Sensor

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I figured it was time to have a dedicated Stagea lambda sensor selection, buying, wiring and fitting thread. There is a lot of info but it is spread out in a number of incomplete threads. So I hope this one will cover everything, with your help of course.

I bought a new lambda sensor from my local Repco yesterday, ACA brand part number ROX207 for an EL Falcon cost $77.97 inc GST. It has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 blue. I will cut the wires and connect it to the Nissan plug via connectors as stainless steel wires do not take solder. They are stainless steel to take the heat, copper or aluminium would simply melt.

Pictures would be here, but I can't figure out how to upload.............

:blink: cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83819-fitting-a-new-lambda-sensor/
Share on other sites

Hi SK,

Ive bought a Repco 'ACA ROX207' oxygen sensor to suit Ford EL. Cost $81. Has 3 wires connecting to a plug; 1 blue wire (by itself in the plug connection), and 2 black wires side by side next to the blue wire.

I hope this is the right one!

Having the Stagea serviced in a few days time (80000km), adding a small body 3inch Catco cat converter (from batmbl), a 3inch stainless single turbo to cat dump pipe (from Just Jap off ebay), a Black Widow car alarm (for insurance sake; thanks Shannons!), a Hybrid EBC (off ebay), an Apexi SAFC II (off ebay), and an R34 GTT intercooler (from member: Ed). With a K&N pod filter and Dayz Special Edition cat-back 3inch mild steel exhaust it should all run well together.

With all of the above fitted and dynoed, hopefully power increases a fair bit, and the fuel issue is 'sort of' fixed with the new O2 sensor.

Once it's all tuned I'll post up a detail of litres per 100kms. And maybe a dyno graph, if it's impressive enough!

Brendan

I cut off the Ford plug and then I checked the lambda sensor plug (three pin) on the Stagea and BINGO it is the same as the lambda sensor plug on the R32GTST. So I cut off the old R32GTST lambda sensor and then used a crimp joiner to attached the three wires, 2 X blacks to the outside pins and the 1 X blue to the inside pin.

Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility.

The lambda sensor is 22mm, and I have a big 22mm ring spanner that should do the job just nicely. Remove the old lambda sensor and screw in the new one.

Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility.

Then plug the new lambda sensor in,

Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility.

Fill the Stagea up on the way to work tomorrow and check the fuel economy over the next week or so. I will post up before and after results

:) cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
After replacing the o2, how should i go about resetting my ECU?

I am not going to bother, I don't think it makes any difference when you don't have any error codes.

You can unplug the ECU, that resets it. Or unplug the battery and stomp on the brake pedal (with the igntion switch on) a few times to make sure all the power is drained. I hate doing that as the clock looses its time and the radio looses all of it preset stations.

:) cheers ;)

For some reason, the bolt in my ECU plug has had its head snapped off.... is it time for me to dremel the bastard out (something i am not happy to think about with all those wires there...)

My guess is someone has tried to tighten the bolt up with the plug not aligned. I would drill it and use an easyout. Much neater.

SK - Do O2 sensors wear out ? Would it be good practise to change the one on my 15 YO R32 ?? Even though it seems to be running fine ?

Nissan recommends changing them every 40,000k's. They don't "wear out" in a mechanical sense. They just get contaminated and don't read the A/F ratios properly.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp)

o26me.jpg

Will go ahead and do the swap this weekend, saturday morning. Will do spark plugs at the same time.

Ill take photos while i do it and do a little write up for everyone...its original so its litterally screw out - screw in.

Anyway, ill post back saturday night,

Alex

Edited by AlexCim
  • Like 1

The gallery is working, so here is the picture of the Falcon lambda sensor with the R32GTST plug fitted to the wiring harness using crimp connectors.

Lambda_Sensor.jpg

The 7 day fuel economy test is underway, results tomorrow.

:D cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp)

...

Alex

How are you going getting the old one out? I tried today and gave up getting a spanner in.. I've rung around town and nobody seems to have the 'oxygen sensor socket' in stock either...

Edit: and slightly off topic, SK - How did you get the gallery working? Is there something special you have to do/be to post images there? I just went over to it, and cant find any button or menu to upload images...

Ian

Edited by ian

Over the weekend i went to try to install my new split dump and front... it ended up not fitting so on the way putting everything back, i put in the new O2...

Unfortunatly, this means i have no photos or anything, but its relativly easy to remove your dump pipe (i could probably do it now in around 1 hour)

The OTHER way around it could be like this...

1. remove engine heat sheild

2. remove the top three bolts holding in the brace, take brace off

3. undo the screws holding on the heat cover on the dump pipe

4. replace o2

5. reverse

I could probably help you out doing it if you want, but not this weekend (too many essays due)...next weekend would be fine.

Ill give my fuel economy report too... still yet to fill her up. I replaced my spark plugs at the same time, the old one were pretty rooted.

4.

How are you going getting the old one out? I tried today and gave up getting a spanner in.. I've rung around town and nobody seems to have the 'oxygen sensor socket' in stock either...

Edit: and slightly off topic, SK - How did you get the gallery working? Is there something special you have to do/be to post images there? I just went over to it, and cant find any button or menu to upload images...

Ian

I used a 22mm ring open ender, it was tricky but it worked.

The Gallery works OK, I just went to "My Photos" (it's on the left top) then "Upload Photos" (that's on the right top). "Browse" to where the photos are on your hard drive. Then "Upload/Submit". Pretty simple actually.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
The Gallery works OK, I just went to "My Photos" (it's on the left top) then "Upload Photos" (that's on the right top).  "Browse" to where the photos are on your hard drive.  Then "Upload/Submit". Pretty simple actually.

:O cheers  :D

ah, that explains it - I have no "My Photos" option, I'll do a post in the right section to say I have a problem..

Ian

Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp)

o26me.jpg

Will go ahead and do the swap this weekend, saturday morning. Will do spark plugs at the same time.

Ill take photos while i do it and do a little write up for everyone...its original so its litterally screw out - screw in.

Anyway, ill post back saturday night,

Alex

Slightly OT but what was the part number of the o2 sensor you got from nissan? It looks like it has 2 black wires and 1 white or is that correct or something else? oh one last question, how much?

Sorry for so many questions!

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...