Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had this same dillema

Question - how much power are you planning to put out?

Question 2 - how much money do you want to spend?

Personally I planned to put out about 300 4wkw. I could only really choose between a ceramic button puk clutch or a twin plate+. I didnt have the money to buy a twin plate, so i bought a custom made ceramic cushioned button clutch with 9 puks from UAS. Cost me $695. It holds the power, but I cant tell you how long it will last

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83834-clutch/#findComment-1519567
Share on other sites

You forgot about question 3) have you used the search function?

There have been clutch threads started once a week since forever relating to all types of cars.

In my opinion for an rb20 id be looking at a decent single plate setup, probably a 9puck with an ugraded pressure plate and retain the stock flywheel. I am running a 9 puck with 1060kg pressure plate behind an rb25det and it is easy to drive and bites when it has to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83834-clutch/#findComment-1519669
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

i agree, a little more info as to how much power you have or will have?

i have about 240+rwkw, and im using an exedy heavy duty clutch, it seems to hold well though when it goes im gonna go for a ceramic button kit, say a 6 puk.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83834-clutch/#findComment-1661030
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...