Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there a bolt up option or do I need a custom shaft?

I'll get the r33 driveshaft nose with the box

Are the r33 manual and r32auto splines the same?

Is the r32 auto driveshaft suitable?

If it doesn't bolt up is it long enough to cut and shut?

What about the speedo drive?

My r32 is cable.

I read a navara or gtr one fits.

Does anyone know what model? Part no.?

What gear do I use on the end of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/
Share on other sites

B0oStEr,

I recently installed an RB25 motor and gearbox in my manual R32. No, the R32 splines (manual and auto) are different. The r33 shares the same yoke as the 300zx (so Hardy Spicer claimed).

If you score the tailshaft yoke with the front cut the easiest option is to have it added to your prop shaft with a new uni joint. I didn't get my tailshaft lengthened but you should check the length before you pull the R32 box out as you have an auto. Measure from the gearbox rear seal to a location on the centre bearing and reference this point to the transmission tunnel (fixed point).

To run the R32 speedo I was also told a Navara or R32 GTR speedo drive would suffice. I didn't have much luck sussing out the Navara drive but I can confirm the R32 GTR drive will work if you swap the speedo pinion gear for the R33 item. This will require removing the spline mounted GTR pinion and pushing on the keyed R33 pinion. It is an interference fit and should hold fine by itself but you may find spraying inside the R33 pinion first with hairspray or similar will add additional holding strength.

The speedo drive came as a number of items but looking at my receipts I think you only need to order 1 part. The Nissan part number is 3270305U20 (Pinion-Speedometer). Check with Nissan that the part includes the speedo drive case and pinion/shaft as I did receive both items as separate packages. Cost is $61+GST.

Another thing to note is the speedo drive sits further forward in the R33 gearbox compared to the R32 gearbox. I had my speedo cable shortened to keep things looking neat.

Also be aware that the factory gearbox mount on the R33 gearbox sits approx 50mm further back and will require modification. In my case I fabricated my own mount.

I must say I love the feel of the R33 gearbox and consider it a worthwhile conversion if you have big power levels in mind.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1518749
Share on other sites

If you score the tailshaft yoke with the front cut the easiest option is to have it added to your prop shaft with a new uni joint. I didn't get my tailshaft lengthened but you should check the length before you pull the R32 box out as you have an auto. Measure from the gearbox rear seal to a location on the centre bearing and reference this point to the transmission tunnel (fixed point).

so all you did was swap a R33 yoke and put it in the standard R32 tailshaft?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1518792
Share on other sites

BH_SLO32

So you used the 33 yoke and fitted it to the r32 manual driveshaft by putting in a new unijoint?

Most people have said they had to cut and shut the stock driveshaft.

My car is a manual but I was going to swap driveshafts with someone who is doing an auto>manual conversion using my old box so is his auto driveshaft going to be too short?

I read on one of the threads that the auto cross member fits the R33 box in a 32.

Can anyone confirm if this is true?

Does anyone know the Navara speedo drive part no.?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1519474
Share on other sites

so all you did was swap a R33 yoke and put it in the standard R32 tailshaft?

Yes, I had Petron Automotive (Driveline specialist in Brisbane) cut the old yoke and uni off (old uni is non-servicable) and welded a new uni on which accommodated the new yoke. In my case I didn't get the yoke so had to source one from Hardy Spicer (approx $110).

BTW I found the original boxes for the R32 GTR speedo and can confirm the details as follows:

Assy-Shaft and pinion gear - Part # 3207-05U20

Speedo Sleeve - Part # 32707-02G02

You may want to order the pin that locks the shaft in place if you can't use the one from the R33 unit and its part number is 3287314600.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1519479
Share on other sites

My sister and brother-in-law both have R32 autos and I'm pretty sure the cross member is the same as the manual which incidentally is the same as the R33 unit. Don't hold me to it but I'm fairly confident that is the case. The manual cross members of the 32 and 33 are the same.The only difference is the mounting position on the gearboxes.

I could have modified the 33 cross member but again to keep things neat I fabricated my own cross member from 40x40x2.5 SHS.

I'll have a stab at posting some photos of my work in due course.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1519488
Share on other sites

I just had this conversion done in my cefiro. I had my mechanic do it, but he didnt go nuts with charging labour, and I had to do the clutch, fly wheel ect, my standard tailshaft was stuffed pretty bad, so then I had the extra cost of a 1 peice. MY conversion totaled about $3500... inc labour.

Anyway, we used the standard cefiro crossmember, just added to it. We used the naravra speedo drive = 32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly , brand new from nissan, $22.00 . Just needed to take the r33 gear off, and put it on, do that how you see fit. You need a R33 clutch slave cly too, I got that brand new off the shelf from nissan for $81.20 or something. To have my standard tailshaft modded was about $250-300, but it was stuffed, so I ended up with a full brand new 1 peice for $450.00. The clutch was the killer, that was about $1150.00, but new fly wheel, clutch, and recoed clutch plate, all done by Jim Berry.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1519574
Share on other sites

My sister and brother-in-law both have R32 autos and I'm pretty sure the cross member is the same as the manual which incidentally is the same as the R33 unit. Don't hold me to it but I'm fairly confident that is the case.

yeah, they are the same on r32.. i had a manual one i bought for manual conversion, and I was going to use the rubber bush to replace the existing one which was hammered. Workshop said they noticed it was exactly the same crossmember between auto and manual.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1519903
Share on other sites

yeah but the cross mameber may be the same but is the floor pan bolt location the same?

As ive read around here if you have an Auto R32 and put a Manual gearbox from an R33 it will bolt straight up.

But if you have a Manual R32 and put a Manual R33 gearbox then you will need to modify...

Dont quote me on that, this is just what ive read around here.

Will someone just buy an Auto cross member and try it on their RB25 gearbox !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1520116
Share on other sites

I just had this conversion done in my cefiro.  I had my mechanic do it, but he didnt go nuts with charging labour, and I had to do the clutch, fly wheel ect, my standard tailshaft was stuffed pretty bad, so then I had the extra cost of a 1 peice.  MY conversion totaled about $3500... inc labour.

Anyway, we used the standard cefiro crossmember, just added to it.  We used the naravra speedo drive = 32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly , brand new from nissan, $22.00 .  Just needed to take the r33 gear off, and put it on, do that how you see fit.  You need a R33 clutch slave cly too, I got that brand new off the shelf from nissan for $81.20 or something.  To have my standard tailshaft modded was about $250-300, but it was stuffed, so I ended up with a full brand new 1 peice for $450.00.  The clutch was the killer, that was about $1150.00, but new fly wheel, clutch, and recoed clutch plate, all done by Jim Berry.

Hope that helps.

What is the advantage of a one piece shaft over a two piece?

So is the navara speedo drive 32702-02G17 the whole assembly?

The navara speedo shaft is splined and the r33 gear is keyed, so you glue it on?

Doesn't the navara shaft being shorter than the r33 shaft, affect how the gears engage?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1520545
Share on other sites

The Navara speed drive is almost identical to the GTR one. You just take the gear off, and put the R33 one on. Its a bit of a hassle. Its not shorter... Unless you are thinking of something else?

And the reason for a one peice was it was going to be $650 to fix my 2 peice as it had stuff wrong with it, the bearing or something. So the replacement 1 peice was cheaper. The apparent advantage is they are lighter, as I had to go for a heavier flywheel in the conversion process, I think its made a difference with the new combo.

Im just saying, before you go to do the conversion, see what else is stuffed. If you need a full new tailshaft, allow money for that, if your clutch/flywheel is buggered, allow for that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1521072
Share on other sites

The navara speedo shaft is splined and the r33 gear is keyed, so you glue it on?

Doesn't the navara shaft being shorter than the r33 shaft, affect how the gears engage?

B0oStEr,

Have a look at the 2 thumbnails I attached earlier. The left photo is a comparison of the 32 GTR item with the splined gear removed (left) and the R33 item with keyed gear removed. If you look above the 33 item you will see the 33 gear. The photo was to show the difference in shaft length of the 32 and 33 speedo drives.

The 2nd thumbnail shows the GTR drive with the 33 pinion gear attached. The 33 drive is an interference fit on the GTR spline so it is unlikely to move. To be safe I sprayed some motorbike gear chain oil in the 33 pinion gear before I pushed it on. The gear chain oil is sticky. You could use hairspray or similar but its not really necessary.

The difference in length between the 32 and 33 pinion shafts is not a problem as only the top portion of the 33 pinion gear is keyed. Therefore when you push it onto the 32 shaft it can only push down until the top of the shaft contacts the start of the portion of the gear that is keyed. This locates the gear in the correct position along the shaft.

Hope this clarifies things.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83872-r33-gbox-in-r32/#findComment-1521707
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
×
×
  • Create New...