Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've always ran Button clutches in the past, with no failures yet.

My GTR clutch is on its last legs atm, so will stick with what I know and run a 5 puck brass Button Sprung centre in it, as they are very driveable, and reletively cheap (approx $500).

I'm not into drag racing so hard launches not really an issue for me :D

I'll join the OS gang. Got a O.S. Giken TS2CD in my R32 ( don't really need that much clutch I know ) but it's very easy to drive, locks up VERY WELL and the pedal pressure is not enough to break the pedal box. With the GT-R's you can add the NISMO big bore slave cylinder and get even better results. :D

My #1 choice would be the Jim Berry clutch. By far the friendliest clutch I've had which does what I want it to.

My #2 choice would be the OS Giken twin plate though. Solid clutch and gives a bit of slip unlike the HKS twin plate which is either on or off. Absolute POS clutch IMHO.

I installed a exedy twin, about 2.5k after toasting a h/p brass 6 button single, found the drivability much better on the twin, got to put up with the rattle though. had it about 6 months and havent been able to make it slip yet!

I think you kill just about kill any clutch in a high poformance 4wd if your constantly doing drag launches with it.

My #1 choice would be the Jim Berry clutch.  By far the friendliest clutch I've had which does what I want it to.

My #2 choice would be the OS Giken twin plate though.  Solid clutch and gives a bit of slip unlike the HKS twin plate which is either on or off.  Absolute POS clutch IMHO.

Agreed!

I had an HKS triple plate on my Supra and it was very very bitey. No good at all for driving in traffic as it's all or nothing.

Exedy twin plates seem to be really good on GTR's. By the sounds of things, they are quite similar to the OS Giken Twin plates as you are able to ride them a little bit

I installed a exedy twin, about 2.5k after toasting a h/p brass 6 button single, found the drivability much better on the twin, got to put up with the rattle though. had it about 6 months and havent been able to make it slip yet!

I think you kill just about kill any clutch in a high poformance 4wd if your constantly doing drag launches with it.

I didn't find the Exedy twin to be overly rattly.

Aren't the OS Giken clutches notorious for being really rattly???

I didn't find the Exedy twin to be overly rattly.

Aren't the OS Giken clutches notorious for being really rattly???

Yeah mine not that loud, seems to come and go.

I think its got to do with how the imtermediate plate is held in place. On the exedy there (from memory) are 6 or 8 large key ways which the intermediate plate sits in. There are spring tabs coming off it to hold preasure between the fly wheel and the preasure plate. I sopose to centralise the intermediate plate when the clutchis dis-engaged and to stop the plate chattering on the key ways a little.

the O.S. type has a large cog type arrangment on the out side of the intermediate plate that splines into the flywheel, and looked to be quite a loose fit.

Any one had an HKS multi plate apart? Just interested how they are designed, as Im told they dont rattle at all?

Yeah mine not that loud, seems to come and go.

I think its got to do with how the imtermediate plate is held in place. On the exedy there (from memory) are 6 or 8 large key ways which the intermediate plate sits in. There are spring tabs coming off it to hold preasure between the fly wheel and the preasure plate. I sopose to centralise the intermediate plate when the clutchis dis-engaged and to stop the plate chattering on the key ways a little.

the O.S. type has a large cog type arrangment on the out side of the intermediate plate that splines into the flywheel, and looked to be quite a loose fit.

Any one had an HKS multi plate apart? Just interested how they are designed, as Im told they dont rattle at all?

Someones telling you porky pies. As I stated earlier, I had a HKS triple plate on the Supra and it was noticeably louder than the Exedy twin plate on the GTR. Maybe that was the difference between twin and triple plates rather than the brands themselves **shrugs**

EDIT: Or maybe my HKS clutch was a bit shagged?

Edited by PHATGTR

heh, yeah probably the guy that told me that is a bit of a tool, never seen a car with an hks one in it myself. It makes sense that triples would be louder though, douldle the intermediate plates probably equals double the chattering noise?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...