Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Surprised that there's only been one nomination for CRD, given the number of GT-Rs you see in their parking lot (and the number of "big" cars they've put together).

For installing stuff I've been quite happy with Joshua from Pro Concept in West Ryde. He knows his mechanical stuff, especially for Nissans, and he's got an attention for detail that I don't see that often.

haha Scathing you beat me to it...

Seconded for Josh at Pro Concept.....

EVERYTHING mechanical I wont let anyone else touch my car.

tuning is done by hitman and fabrication work by maroun at Race Solutions.

So besides tuning and fabrication..everything else like installation and engine work and even suspension work is done by Josh. Cleanest workshop you will ever see.

IMHO one of the best nissan mechanics around.

ECU, Intercooler, Dump Pipe, Boost Controller, BOV.

ECU - power fc from the web and tune from unigroup or chip and tune from unigroup. Yavuz is the only dyno/tuner guy I've seen who's ever looked like he cares for the car getting tuned/on the dyno.

Intercooler - Recommend a GTR cooler for anything up to 250rwkw. Find it on the forums or buy a new one on the web, I wouldn't bother with the rubbish being sold at places like justjap.

Dump pipe - BATMBL on these forums will do you a good deal, just PM him he runs bosimporting.com.au and has dumppipes out the ass.

Boost controller - wait for a good second hand one on forums or buy a new one from a place like nengun. I recommend a blitz dual solenoid, either the current model or the model back.

BOV - if you really want one just buy one second hand off the forums, give it a clean and a lube and away you go. You may need some fabrication work for the adaptor but people sometimes sell these together. I have a professor sheepdog bov for sale if you want (pm me).

Good luck.

Judging by the response about bel, that place seems pretty good...

im lookin for a good mechanic to do some actual mechanic work on my R32 regarding a clutch and pedal box work.....

might go to bel and see what they can do

What do you guys reckon about Unique auto sports in castle hill?????

i have heard they are pretty good???

Judging by the response about bel, that place seems pretty good...

im lookin for a good mechanic to do some actual mechanic work on my R32 regarding a clutch and pedal box work.....

might go to bel and see what they can do

What do you guys reckon about Unique auto sports in castle hill?????

i have heard they are pretty good???

If its clutch work you need to get done.

www.westernclutch.com.au

they are in St Marys.....they are a clutch specialist.

Judging by the response about bel, that place seems pretty good...

im lookin for a good mechanic to do some actual mechanic work on my R32 regarding a clutch and pedal box work.....

might go to bel and see what they can do

What do you guys reckon about Unique auto sports in castle hill?????

i have heard they are pretty good???

I would personally recommend MArk @ MRC over UAS.. MArk used to work there couple of years ago befor eopening up his own place... Marks has a high standard of work, aswell as being down to earth, and doesnt mind explaining things, and recommending few diferent alternatives

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...