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pretty ignorant, if its 98RON, then it should be as good as the Mobil and BP stuff. I have noticed no differance in knock levels between Mobil or BP, but I tend to get less kms out of BP Ultimate

Chances are its probably comes out of the same refinery as either BP or Mobil

the SAFF on OG Road sells 100RON Racing Fuel

Im going to give it a try next time I go past a SAFF, the one I saw selling it was down near Holdens at Elizabeth

I think they take discount vouchers too.....

if your going to use the STAFF 98 ron fuel that im sure it should be ok if you got it tuned to take 98 ron fuel no matter what it comes from ie Staff/bp/mobil. But what is the point in using 100 ron fuel if you only use it once in a blue moon?

Yeah, the SAFF 98 should be no differant to the BP/Mobil fuel

100 Octane is good for track days etc where that bit of extra octane can be the differance in going home happy, or towing your car home because it had been detonating with the extra heat your car experiences at the track. It was pretty expensive though, at about $1.65 a litre I think (that was 8 months ago too)

I have used it once, and it was quite good

I think they are calling the SAFF stuff 'Boost 98' or seomthing like that

Interesting to hear people say "if it's 98 it should be just as good as the others"

Ask some questions of some people who have used optimax (not available in SA) and listen to the responses. Plenty will never use it again.

Also, I wouldn't buy fuel from a servo that didn't sell a lot of it. This high octane unleaded goes off, so if they aren't selling a lot and getting topped up frequently you might get a stale batch.

The moral of the story - always buy fuel from a busy servo.

A recent write up in a magazine found all 98ron fuels were 98, but the age of the fuel will make a difference. I think this is the big benefit with BP as they use fewer aromatics to produce 98ron, and hence it is less susceptible to the age problem.

Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

Edited by Busky2k

Yeah good mate. Yourself?

Oh yeah when I was surfing the SAFF website, seems this 98ROn stuff is 10% ethanol. Good for emmissions and the environment but could have unpredictable results in modified boosted cars like ours.

Edited by Busky2k
Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

I am always looking for a positive, so another way of putting it is that the acid eats away at the combustion chamber (making it larger) and hence decompresses it allowing me to run more boost (and hence get more power without detonation). How much sulphur fuel will I need to get my RB25 up to an RB26?

The glass is always half full.

Thats good to hear, im going well.

In regards to the SAFF fuel, Im doubt their is many sa import owners with "hard" tuned cars though (correct me if im wrong).

There are always those who still haven't had a retune since Mik from Tilbrooks touched their cars (admitedly most of them dont run anymore)

Edited by 4door_Sleeper

Sorry "hard tuned" (before I edited it) meant cars with programmable ECUs that tuned to make more power than the stockie ECU. Ie leaner AFRs, more ign advance. Thus they are more succeptable to detonation from a shitty fuel. (being 'harder tuned' than factory if you get what i mean).

4door, your a crack up mate. :P In the real world, that means the clearances between your piston and bore open up due to wear. I think the rings suffered too IIRC.

Edited by Busky2k

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