Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines


Recommended Posts

Hey Braddd, this is my first post and I don't want to come in too hard straight off the cuff, so forgive me if this sounds too authoritative, but you know thats not legal right?

225/40R18's shouldn't be mounted on anything bigger than a 9" wheel.

215/40R18's shouldn't be mounted on anything bigger than a 8.5" wheel.

with that in mind have you considered;

rear: 255/35R18

front: 225/40R18 or even a 235/35R18 (a bit hard to find)

:):laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

dear god, someone illegally modifying their skyline, we must alert the prime minister!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its all about the stretch! haha

are you sure 225/40 is legal for 9" rim? i would have thought youd be pushing it..

bradd u wont need to flare rear just roll guards and camber should look tough as! ive got 18x10 +20 and i just rolled but havent dumped it yet may need more guard modification when i drop another inch.

also nisskid what are the chances of fitting a 255 or 265 under r33 guards lots of camber im guessing?

i guess my question is, why do u want a 255/265 if ur willing to run a lot of camber? lots of potential contact path, but with a lot of camber ull end up with less contact path than a 225 with less camber.

u can get 255/265's under 33 guards easy with the right offset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i guess my question is, why do u want a 255/265 if ur willing to run a lot of camber? lots of potential contact path, but with a lot of camber ull end up with less contact path than a 225 with less camber.

u can get 255/265's under 33 guards easy with the right offset.

cos they almost made me get my car towed home :) so id rather go with a bigger tyre / camber and keep the po po off my back.

slightly off topic u know anything about hsd coilovers? how u rate em?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cos they almost made me get my car towed home :) so id rather go with a bigger tyre / camber and keep the po po off my back.

slightly off topic u know anything about hsd coilovers? how u rate em?

best u can do is play around with 2nd hand scraps of different sizes until u find out how big u can go, then just buy a tyre in that size.

as far as HSD's, when ur talking bottom of the line suspension they are good in comparison to other stuff of it's class, seems the BC stuff has been all the rave recently tho, and a good mate of mine reckons they are decent based off some research, so id be inclined to believe him. although tbh, i never really recommend anything that cheap for cars like ours, it's just all too low quality imo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh fair enough i figured they werent going to be high class but all the jap stuff is very pricey atm but i think i might just stick with teins do it right once.

thanks mate advice is spot on as always :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nothing wrong with providing a bit of information mate... how it's used is up to the individual.

true, but u'll find generally people going outside the boundaries of whats recommended understand that. tyres very rarely pop off the bead for no reason, and it's no different with stretched tyres, ull find only the ridiculously stretched tyres ever come off simply under additional load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah nisskid I know you regularly run stretched tyres and so do many people, and you probably have not had an issue.

but to me going against the actual manufacturer's recommendation, as well as ADRs so it looks drift hectic is pretty silly.

just buy wheels and tyres that fit the car properly and safely.

any time you are relying on a inward stretched sidewall and camber to tuck the wheel inside the guard it is getting pretty silly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is this manual what police will defect you via?

i got done on the weekend for a 235/40 on a 18x10 so now im thinking ill just stick the right size what is recommened for 10" in your book pls?

Wouldn't you get done for having a too wide rim anyway? like the 2in wider than standard rule.

I assume it's a gtst? so 16x7 standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't you get done for having a too wide rim anyway? like the 2in wider than standard rule.

I assume it's a gtst? so 16x7 standard.

Here's the thing,

There is another manual used called the Universal Tyre Fitment Guide which lists all OE fitments of wheels/tyres/offsets for australian delivered cars which is also used by authorities on matters such as overall tyre diameter increase & track increase etc (mainly for 4x4's). Because it only references Aus delivered vehicles, only select Skyline models are shown such as R31's and some GTR models.

Without a reference as to what an imported vehicle came with as standard it is near impossible for police to prosecute, unless however the tyre placard on the vehicle clearly states a rim width (most don't). So with this in mind, assuming you are within the recommended outer tyre diameter as per your local authority and the tyre is mounted on the rim as per the Tyre & Rim standards manual you 'should' be fine.

Every state authority is different though, it's up to the individual to do his/her due diligence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is this manual what police will defect you via?

i got done on the weekend for a 235/40 on a 18x10 so now im thinking ill just stick the right size what is recommened for 10" in your book pls?

police in tassie are totally oblivious to this shit, get defected for totally bald tires and thats about it, maybe if you zorst is too loud...

:D:D:):laugh::laugh:

dear god, someone illegally modifying their skyline, we must alert the prime minister!!

LAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWLLL

Edited by Braddd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah nisskid I know you regularly run stretched tyres and so do many people, and you probably have not had an issue.

but to me going against the actual manufacturer's recommendation, as well as ADRs so it looks drift hectic is pretty silly.

just buy wheels and tyres that fit the car properly and safely.

any time you are relying on a inward stretched sidewall and camber to tuck the wheel inside the guard it is getting pretty silly.

each to their own, there are reasons why manufacturers only recommend around 3 sizes for 1 wheel size, mainly because there is no reason to do otherwise. 3 sizes is a big enough window, and there is absolutely no reason for tyre manufacturers to widen the window, as low as the risk may be.

and ADR's are simply based off manufacturers recommendation, they carry zero merit on their own.

and for the record, everyone does things to their cars every day to make them look and sound better that make their cars illegal, wheel fitment is no different, it's just some dont get it, but that's the beauty of styling, everyone has different taste. some times u just have to accept that you dont like the styling, but many others do, just like you may like the styling of ur car, but many others dont.

also for the record, although this is kind of off-topic in this situation, stretch can be used to firm up the sidewall of tyres that dont have the reinforcement that high end performance tyres do. a good example is im currently supplied neuton tyres from my sponsor to drift on, now they are a cheap tyre, and yes ideally i'd like to run high end tyres, but when ur chewing through a pair every few sessions then it's just not ecconomically viable at my level, so what i will be doing is getting rid of my 17x9's on the rear in chase of some 17x10's, but keep the same 235/45 tyre, this will stretch the tyre more and give me more feel, yes the unsprung weight will go up, but with the added feel, and minimised deformation of the soft sidewalls, it's worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't you get done for having a too wide rim anyway? like the 2in wider than standard rule.

I assume it's a gtst? so 16x7 standard.

just to correct here, standard gts-t is 16x6.5 (+40 if relevant), so even less lee-way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also even if he doesnt get done for too wide, they will do him for protruding tyre, if a officer can look down the guard from directly above, and see tyre tread, then apparently it's illegal, or at least in police's eyes. the biggest issue with this is police struggle to grasp the difference between tread, sidewall, and rim.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and ADR's are simply based off manufacturers recommendation, they carry zero merit on their own.

That's not 100% correct.

Whilst Australian Standards are developed in conjunction with manufacturers (along with engineers, industry professionals and international associations) they are not based on manufacturers recommendations solely and at times a manufacturers recommendation is at-odds with the Association standard. In such cases the Association Standard overides any manufacturers recommendation.

An example:

Mickey Thompson MTZ 285/75R16 - According to the manufacturer it may be mounted on a 7" rim

Australian Standard says minimum for a 285/75R16 is 7.5".

In this case the Australian standard overides the manufacturers recommendation.

Apologies for getting all technical.... and sorry for using a 4x4 tyre as an example, it's just something that came up the other day and was fresh in my mind.

Edited by thewheeldeal.com.au
Link to comment
Share on other sites

no you just said that they weren't based off manufacturers, which made me think it was based off their own tests, that would mean they would have to test it all themselves and engineer every single possible combination. if not, then afaik my statement still stands that they carry no merit of their own, they are just guidelines based of standards given by other sources.

i think people should look at what the evidence is before making their decisions, if people really want to stretch, then they can look at the others that drive/drift/race on stretched tyres and they can make their decision based off that, i have, and i am yet to find a case of a tyre popping off the bead with mild stretch besides crashing or hitting something, therefore i made the educated decision that stretching was fine. if people arent willing to take the "risk" themselves then good for them, but expect to be greeted with opposition if you suggest it's unsafe without any real evidence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FFS, wheeldeal.com/whateverthef**k, its the job of the police to enforce the law, thank you for sharing the laws however i think you may find that the people on this forum put certain rim and tyre sizes on their cars because they WANT to, in order to achieve a certain look. and in doing so are prepared to deal with the police attention and such. so i dont think they care. myself included.

also bitchin like this makes the site seem like boostcruising.com and bloody nobody wants to end up like that joker of a forum...

Edited by Braddd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...