Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, thinking of getting some wheels for my r33 gtst off one of the traders. Been reading the thread but still wanted opinions from some of the more experienced members. I was looking at getting the following specs:

18 x 9 +15 for the fronts

18 x10 +15 for the rears

Looking at running 235s for the front and possibly anything above 235s for the rear. I will be purchasing camber arms and rolling/ flaring my guards as necessary. My questions are:

- how agressive is this fitment? I want to achieve the wide stance without overly sacrificing the life of my tyres. I do understand that camber will come into play, but I would like to avoid having to change my tyres every month just to achieve a particular look

- would 235s at the rear be sacrificing traction? If so, what would be a better recommendation? As I said I'm willing to roll/flare and purchase camber arms, so what combination would be best for the rear

Oh and I forgot to mention that I will be purchasing some coilovers also, but won't be lowering the car to a ridiculous height since I have a driveway I have to get in and out of. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

id be keen to see the results of that combo, thats an inch wider than mine on the back, i dont think you want too much more camber on the back, its got enough already

it would be awesome round a track though.

id be keen to see the results of that combo, thats an inch wider than mine on the back, i dont think you want too much more camber on the back, its got enough already

it would be awesome round a track though.

Mate do you have any pictures of how your car sits? I'd like to have a visual just so I have a benchmark to compare against. And what did you mean about the camber in the back?

Just took the plunge and bought myself some Ame Circlar Spec R in 18x9 +15 and 18x10 +15 from one of the traders (Autotechnik). I'll post up some pics when all the work is done. Probably in a couple of months. :)

you'll need alot of camber in the rear, and the front on stock guards will fit with a roll but will have to stretch

tyre life wont be good at all.

should have pics of my 9.5+13 and 10+9 end of next week.

you'll need alot of camber in the rear, and the front on stock guards will fit with a roll but will have to stretch

tyre life wont be good at all.

should have pics of my 9.5+13 and 10+9 end of next week.

Awesome, looking forward to the pics. Also I spoke to PhilB (from this site and JDMST forums) and he said that he ran similar specs and for the rear, with a bit of rolling and a flare/pull he was able to minimise the amount of camber that had to be run. So fingers crossed I suppose. And luckily for me the skyline isn't a daily driver so hopefully that will minimise tyre wear. :)

My car for example. Previous wheel: (f) 17x9.5 +0 and ® 18x10.5 +15 lots of camber on the front, something like -4 and stretched tyres all round

5457384945_9eee29df84_o.jpg

Awesome, thanks for the photo blags. Car looks awesome!

;)

pretty sure 10+15 will need fair bit of camber if you are only rolling, my camber arms are on full for the 10+20

So alex, your guards were just rolled? I'll be getting mine pulled and/or flared at the rear so hopefully this will allow me to run less camber. So what is the maximum camber setting at the rear for an r33 (in degrees)?

Anyone fitted 18 x 10 + 15 on there 32 gtr? any photos? modifications required?

was thinking of putting 255's or do you guys reckon definately 265's.

Cheers,

Thanks

did u end up fitting the 18x10 +15 rims, got pics or comments on the fit?

Thanks for input earlier guys, ended up getting the 18x10's with +22

So next question i have is tyres

Obviously there are so many to choose from but ones i'm looking at are Toyo's flagship T1 Sport tyres

Sizes i was considering were either 265/35, 275/35 or 285/35

I'm kinda leaning towards 275 at moment

Anyone know if i'll have any clearance problems if i choose the 275 or 285 options?

any updates? pics?

im looking at 18x10 +15 on R32 R

I'm running 18x10.5 +15 TE37s on an R32 GTR with 265/35R18 semi slicks on them and I had to get the guards rolled slightly and the rear raised a tad.

They stick out a little but look f**king awesome IMO.

285446_10150376304278986_711878985_10328092_8284127_n.jpg

268030_10150376303983986_711878985_10328080_4947951_n.jpg

265036_10150373244248986_711878985_10307687_1522776_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...