Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would have thought you would have scrubbing issues on fronts. I could be wrong though.

I've seen TE37s this size on a 34 gtr, would that sizing clearance be the same for different style wheels? And would coil overs also effect the clearance?

I've seen TE37s this size on a 34 gtr, would that sizing clearance be the same for different style wheels? And would coil overs also effect the clearance?

The only difference between 2 wheels of the same offset and size would be dependent on the style of rim - whether it clears the brakes. I have a friend who has 8 pots on the front, and VERY few rims fit because of the clearance needed. He has Te37s and Lmgt4s or whatever sitting in his garage that he had on beforehand that won't fit now cause of his brakes - this is very rare though, and it is only because his brakes are $15000 to keep up with his 1000hp rb3.15.

And I wouldn't have thought coils would affect the clearance too much as a low offset like that should be pushing the rim out fairly far. I don't own a 34 GTR though so I am not the expert to be talking to.

Have a look at this and judge for yourself: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=245&aspect=40&diameter=18&wheelwidth=9&offset=30&width2=255&aspect2=40&diameter2=19&wheelwidth2=10.5&offset2=22&Submit=Submit

Pretty sure GTR rims are 18x9+30 (not 100% sure).. If we assume you have safe fitment tyres, say 245/40, and slap some stretch on the 10.5s, say 255/40, you can see in the picture the new rims are going to sit 27mm further out (poke) but also 11mm in further (inset) which I would have thought would be easily enough clearance inside the guards.

Edited by voncina

Looking at some starcorps for my R32 GTST, 18x8.8 and 18x9.5 +38, will these fit a moderately low 32 GTST with no guard work? If not what guard work would need to be done?

I would find it hard to think 9.5+38 would not have scrubbing issues on the inside of the wheel (suspension, arms, etc) Not sure about 32's though.

And 18x8.8? May want to revise measurements.

Sorry 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 +38.

So you think they'll hit suspension arms and/or coilsovers?

I can't be too sure, I have only really been doing research on 34s, and to a lesser extent, 33s because the gap is much the same.

What kind of rims are you running at the moment? Based on the 34 stock rims, if I slapped those rims on my car it would most definatly rub on the rears, they are sitting 30mm further INSIDE the guards, closer to the suspension then stock rims. The sizes you have seem ok, I would just revise the offset.

A guard roll will only set you back $100, and it is worth getting. I will do some research and see what I can find for you.

EDIT: After researching a bit on 32s, yours will fit fine. Rears will be close to hicas on rears, and it if it is too low you will need to lip the guards.

Such poor offsets on 32s..

Edited by voncina

15x10 -26 Superlites 205/50 all round

not the best pictures but once its going again ill get it out and take better ones

post-71390-0-81092100-1343285442_thumb.jpgpost-71390-0-15347900-1343285385_thumb.jpg

I realise not everyone will like it but I do haha

Dude that is sex. Very JDM.

Who gives a f**k if no one likes it. Haters gonna hate!

I'm getting everything engineered on my r32 gtst and I got knocked back due to my rims being outside the guards, the engineer said all I need to do is roll my guards. I was planning on new rims in about 6 months but I thought I might as well get them now an get them engineered too.

I've been looking at work xt7s 18s @ 7.5 wide fronts an 8.5 rear as well as 18 inch rota grids with a similar width front an back. White or bronze, haven't decided yet

I don't know much about wheel offsets and my current rims don't have any info stamped on them. My question is what offsets would make them fit nicely within the guards? Paint is only 2 months old and I'm not too keen about rolling the guards just in case it cracks the paint..

Any advice would be appreciated as I said I don't know much about this subject and I'm doing lots of research

I'm getting everything engineered on my r32 gtst and I got knocked back due to my rims being outside the guards, the engineer said all I need to do is roll my guards. I was planning on new rims in about 6 months but I thought I might as well get them now an get them engineered too.

I've been looking at work xt7s 18s @ 7.5 wide fronts an 8.5 rear as well as 18 inch rota grids with a similar width front an back. White or bronze, haven't decided yet

I don't know much about wheel offsets and my current rims don't have any info stamped on them. My question is what offsets would make them fit nicely within the guards? Paint is only 2 months old and I'm not too keen about rolling the guards just in case it cracks the paint..

Any advice would be appreciated as I said I don't know much about this subject and I'm doing lots of research

if your goign to roll guards, id be going 9" minimum

if your goign to roll guards, id be going 9" minimum

Engineer wont certify anything over 8.5" wide on a gtst. He doesn't care about the diamteter of the rim just the width, something about modifying the track width +/- 25mm

Why are you getting wheels engineered? If anything i though it was within 2" diamiter of stock size and that is OK.

I can understand if you were tryign to put 22" rims on, But really, what needs to be engineered with 9" wide wheels.

seems odd.

Edited by sydking

2 inche is right, but the stock R32 Gts-t rims were 16x6.5 inches. R32 GTR rims were 16x7, cause it isnt a GTR I cannot get away with putting 9s on and still be within RTA's guidelines and get the engineering cert.

I thought if im going to the trouble of getting a couple of things engineered for blueslip i might as well get everything done, won't cost me much extra and it'll protect me from defects. Trying to do things the right way. The amount of hoops i have to jump through though lol

7.5" wide? That is pretty skinny, even for a 32GTST. I'd go 8.5" +30 if you want a safe fit.

I'm looking to go on R33 GTST.

9" +27 front 235/40/18

10" +30 rear 265/35/18

That would be a safe fitment. Nothing too outlandish, and sortaflush.

2 inche is right, but the stock R32 Gts-t rims were 16x6.5 inches. R32 GTR rims were 16x7, cause it isnt a GTR I cannot get away with putting 9s on and still be within RTA's guidelines and get the engineering cert.

I thought if im going to the trouble of getting a couple of things engineered for blueslip i might as well get everything done, won't cost me much extra and it'll protect me from defects. Trying to do things the right way. The amount of hoops i have to jump through though lol

correction gtst stock rims are 16x6, my bad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know mentally you're set on the ATS clutch but honestly I'm a big fan of the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin. It's much cheaper and in some ways I think it's a better design for a street/circuit car.
    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
×
×
  • Create New...