Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sweet as, cheers That's exactly what I'm looking for aswell, normal grids on the front and grid r on the back, thanks I'll post photos when it's done!

It's pretty conservative. I was running with a 20mm spacer on the front for a while and it looked a little more aggressive.

  • Like 1

Hey can you guys help me out I have a 33 gtst and I'm looking to go different wheels, just wondering if I can 18" 8.5 +30 on the front and 18" 9.5 +38 on the back? Or should I just go same width front and rear, if so should I go 8.5 or 9.5 all round???

Standard Nismo sizes ;)
  • Like 1

FYI, 32 GTR running 350mm front 340mm rear heights. Trial fit of 265/35s on 18x10.5 +25 has gone well, no apparent scraping on road test. Rear guards were rolled a few years back for different rims (255s on 17x9 +20)

Given the hours of research I did reading this thread prior to purchasing them, I think its only fair I post up a few pictures of my new wheels, it might be of use to someone else in the future.

They are 18x9.5+27 all round. 235/40/18 at the front and 265/35/18 at the rear.

The height is the minimum on a set of Tein Street Advance, I rolled all the guards (probably more aggresively than I needed to), and the front inner splash guards are removed. I have left the plastic splash guards in that sit over/behind the front wheels. I was gonna remove them, but wussed out when I saw the wiring in behind the right front. As a result it does rub the plastic on right side at full lock, where there is a bulge over the wiring itself. Also rubs the plastic splash guards at the final few millimetres of front suspension travel, ie. going over a very aggresive bump. I think I'll try moulding the splash guard with a heat gun as the next step. Raising the car up slighty would fix it too, as would a slightly lower profile tyre.

Excuse my hopeless photography skills, and cosmetically flawed car. I washed it a half hour prior to the photos but it rained heavily on the way... typical haha.

post-72160-0-73028100-1420351192_thumb.jpg

post-72160-0-68012600-1420351477_thumb.jpg

post-72160-0-47047200-1420351511_thumb.jpg

Edited by YawRate
  • Like 2

Looks good man, similar to my old setup

With the splash guards, what you can do is just cut out the bits where it has rubbed with a stanley knife or something (they will be shiny and noticeable from rubbing on the tyre), probably easier than remoulding it with a heat gun etc. Don't raise the car lol, looks nice as is

Looks good man, similar to my old setup

With the splash guards, what you can do is just cut out the bits where it has rubbed with a stanley knife or something (they will be shiny and noticeable from rubbing on the tyre), probably easier than remoulding it with a heat gun etc. Don't raise the car lol, looks nice as is

Thanks mate. I looked over the pictures of your white GTST in detail, your contributions to this thread are as helpful as anyones.

I haven't conidered the stanley knife option, I think the isue will be that the spot that rubs is the exact location of the wiring, and the whole idea of having them is to protect that spot haha.

Its not the end of the world either way, I just wanted to list everything out for other peoples information so they can make informed decisions. On that.... the other point I should have listed is that +27 is probably as high at offset as I'd be wiling to go at the front for a 9.5 rim. I found a few examples of people running 9.5+30, but given I have 3mm of clerance to the UCA at full lock, I'd say +30 would be to close for comfort. Obviously this would be dependant on the exact details of the steering geometry and even the amount of play you have in our steering rack...

I found that the spots were really small, you might have a different experience though.

I came to this realisation AFTER I removed all the splash guards (which I regret doing haha), so it's good that you aren't going down that road at least

After reading through about 60% of the thread and using a few online calculators I'm at the point of asking within the thread for extra input.

I'm keen on a set of Advan RZ-DF and would prefer 18x8.5 +31 235/40/18 A050 and 18x10 +35 2X5/35/18 (X = as wide as I can fit without scrubbing issues)

I have Ksport 356 8 pot / 356 4 pot brakes to consider. The rear guards are lipped but not flared - prefer to keep it that way.

Would love to opt for more offset on the rear but Yokohama / Advan don't give that option.

Am I in the ball park with the above combo'?

post-81-0-85160800-1420823144.jpg

post-81-0-10972200-1420823248_thumb.jpg

Yes good point, it would help if I clarify which model. The car is a '94 33 GTS25t (see avatar picture - engine details listed in sig), same year model as your car.

Thanks for your input, Mark. I see you've listed (adjustable) rear camber arms in your mod list. How much negative camber is your 33 running on the rear? And how low does it sit? Do have any photos of the car with the current set-up you don't mind sharing?

I'm currently running Lenso D1R in 18x8.5 +35 235/40/18 RT615 & 18x9 +32 265/35/18 R888 - and 265/40/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial 2 for the odd drag strip outing. Front offset isn't great and rear is useless for drags as it needs too much neg to stop the fat MT ETs from rubber under WOT rear squat.

post-81-0-20245700-1420844584_thumb.jpg

Photos of mine are only a couple of pages back. Post #3172

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/84208-Wheel-Sizes-&-Offsets-For-Skylines#entry7430526

Edited by M@&k

It all looks very promising! You've managed to get it to sit neutral with a 10" 265 combo', which is precisely what I'm aiming for. I'll have to drop down to a narrower 9" to run my 265 40 18 MT ET Street 2 to achieve neutral dynamic but that's as easy as ordering a 2nd set of rears and swapping and aligning as required depending on strip or street use .

Thanks again.

whats will this be like on a 32 gtr

18x9.5 +15 & 18x10.5 +15

will we be in the guards or no chance?

I believe you want the same size all round on a GTR or the altezza system has a cry. Anyone else care to weigh in?

Yeah go 10.5in all round on a GTR - otherwise you just make an understeery car more understeery, and you're potentially giving yourself attessa problems (unless you get the tyre circumference right). I have 10.5 +25s all round. With 265s there's a little scraping at the back. Remember tyre size is usually where you get the problems, not rim size. You might get away with +15 but you'd have to roll the rears. I'd be pretty sure most people would prefer at least +20.

Also check back a few pages in the thread (or search), pretty sure that 10.5/+15 setup has been mentioned before.

Hey guys,

Ive got an R34 gtt sedan and ive come across some te37s for the right price but they're 18x9.5 +35 square...

Im worried that they'll be too close to the strut in the front and may rub nearing full lock as well. It works out at approx 20mm closer to the strut and 30mm further out. Could they work for me or am I gonna have to hold off for a lower offset set?

Ive heard that +27 or lower will clear but im unable to confirm as my cars at the shop and ive lost my, (all be it) rough measurements from before I took it down.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Regards,

Craig

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.
    • Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/  
    • Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
×
×
  • Create New...