Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where is it scrubbing? It shouldn't be with those tyre sizes. The offset seems a bit high, might be scrubbing the front part of the plastic guard cover (if you're running high caster).

FYI I'm running 275/35/18 on 18x10+20, just touches the bit where the bumper is mounted to the guard (rolled guards). I could just raise the car to stop it :P.

  • Like 1

Quick question:

Will 18x9.5 +23 fit the front of an R33 without rolling or removing the splash guards? Looking at running either 225/40 or 235/40.

I've got no issue with rolling the rear guards but I don't want to mess up the front. Car sits with about 2-3cm between tyre and arch so not super low.

Currently running 18x9 +30 with no scrubbing at all.

Quick question:

Will 18x9.5 +23 fit the front of an R33 without rolling or removing the splash guards? Looking at running either 225/40 or 235/40.

I've got no issue with rolling the rear guards but I don't want to mess up the front. Car sits with about 2-3cm between tyre and arch so not super low.

Currently running 18x9 +30 with no scrubbing at all.

Yes.

I don't wanna mess with the guard liner/front guards because a) it looks shit when it's missing and b) shit gets into the quarter behind the wheel. I'd rather just leave it untouched.

You are just rolling the lip on the fender.. Not missing the plastic lining... There are almost no downsides to getting it done.

I don't wanna mess with the guard liner/front guards because a) it looks shit when it's missing and b) shit gets into the quarter behind the wheel. I'd rather just leave it untouched.

Meh... bin it

Hey guys, im in the market for new rims and im a newbie when it comes to offsets so ive come to you guys!

My 33 has not had its guards rolled and sits at a pretty well standard height for the moment but will be putting some BC Coilovers in at the same time or shortly after i get wheels!

wanting to put the following on and Id like to know if i can run them safely without any scrubbing and to clear the struts and calipers and to not be sticking out the guards too much! (or is that too much to ask lol)


Tyres 235/40/R18 all round

Front : 18x8.5 or 18x9.5 + 22 to + 35 (roughly)

Rear 18x9.5 +22 to +30 (either or in between)

im after the most aggressive deep sort of look on my car, so any reccomendations and or opinions would be great!

looking at getting some varrstoen Es3's or Es6's or some Rotas..im too undecided there all so good!

Cheers!

Front : 18x8.5 or 18x9.5 + 22 to + 35 (roughly) go at least +30-22. Will need rolled guards. Varsstoen have low disc so I'm not sure they will clear calipers.

Rear 18x9.5 +22 to +30 (either or in between) will be fine, a little poke.

  • Like 1

So I think I've finally decided on a wheel size that I want for my R34 gtt 18x9.5+20 all round. (Now just need to find some BBS RGR's)

The thing is, I wanted to go with the same tyre size all around too, I couldn't find anyone or anything on the forum, but has anyone run 255/35 on the fronts? Closest I've seen was 245

Edited by tiddyd

Plenty of people have but you would be better going with a higher quality 235/40 if its a street car as it will grip just as well and will be lot easier to fit. Unless you are running 400kw or something crazy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
×
×
  • Create New...