Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is bad advice! Not to mention these are illegal

Because slamming your car and having rims poking 10mm outside the guard isn't.

Hub centralising spacers are fine for daily use - if he told me he was tracking it I would have said no.

Because slamming your car and having rims poking 10mm outside the guard isn't.

Hub centralising spacers are fine for daily use - if he told me he was tracking it I would have said no.

clearly you have no idea what is good and bad when it comes to suspension/wheels but im not going to get into an E fight with you...FYI i bolded that section of your quoted text for a reason!

let me know when you have some experience in suspension

How would fitting xxr002 16x8 +0 go for a r32 gtst coupe with 205/50 tyres? I'm wondering how brake clearance would be and if spacers would be needed. I have a guard roller and adjustable camber arms.

brake clearance shouldnt be an issue.....pretty agressive wheels tho! pics when fitted

clearly you have no idea what is good and bad when it comes to suspension/wheels but im not going to get into an E fight with you...FYI i bolded that section of your quoted text for a reason!

let me know when you have some experience in suspension

he's got you there damo... you said illegal, which having rims out of your guards is :P

Won't fit over the front calipers. Knew itd be an issue but was being hopeful lol, time to buy spacers

Thought they would have fit easy, i have 15x10's on my 33 and they fit no problem

Edited by Autumn33

Chaps,

After reading through 115 pages of this thread, I have a bit better of an idea of what sized wheels I should be looking at, but this question is more R34 GTT specific.

I'd like to run

18 x 9 +20 Front (235/40)

18 x 10 + 12 Rear (245/40)

I currently only have Blitz ZZ-R coilovers fitted, but open to comments about what other kind of suspension components needed to run this setup.

Cheers,

Shazza

Chaps,

After reading through 115 pages of this thread, I have a bit better of an idea of what sized wheels I should be looking at, but this question is more R34 GTT specific.

I'd like to run

18 x 9 +20 Front (235/40)

18 x 10 + 12 Rear (245/40)

I currently only have Blitz ZZ-R coilovers fitted, but open to comments about what other kind of suspension components needed to run this setup.

Cheers,

Shazza

no issues with the coilovers there. Will need to lip the guards on the rear but the fronts will be no issues. would help if you had rear upper adjustable camber arms but shoud be able to squeeze them in without too much hassles

Hi Frosty,

Thanks for the quick reply. I intend on getting a set of rear camber arms, and front eccentric camber adjustable bolts for adjustment regardless.

Would a 255/40 fit on the 10" wheel on the rear, without much issues?

Cheers,

Shazza

Hi Frosty,

rear camber arms, and front eccentric camber adjustable bolts for adjustment regardless.

Would a 255/40 fit on the 10" wheel on the rear, without much issues?

Thanks for the quick reply. I intend on getting a set of Cheers,

Shazza

255 is a big tyre you would want to run a smaller tyre unless you go mexican and run camber but then defeats the purpose anyway. if you look at my signature the one on the right is a R32 with 18x9.5 +12 all round with 235/40 an the GTT is roughly 15mm wider each side in the rear

not at all and only if its more than 25mm ;)

The wheel and tyre must be contained within the body work or mudguards (including any flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi09_rev4.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
    • The tension is automatic....if you follow the installation instructions Self adjusting tensioners are used when the chain/belt is expected to stretch during it's service life, but the downside is the tensioner itself can fail and cause a problem, while the RB system is locked once it is installed and doesn't have that risk
×
×
  • Create New...