Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines


Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...
On 3/15/2018 at 9:17 AM, Fr3akyR33 said:

Would 18" 8.5 +30mm on the front and 18" 9.5 +30mm on the rear fit a r33 1994 gtst?

I'm not an expert, but I'd say yes, with a caveat on the front.


Your +30 on the front might be a problem pending the wheels. My 18x8.75 +35mm when fitted to the front scrubbed the caliper and just looked balls. I now run +20 on the front and it's much better.

I also had 18x8.75 +35mm on my rear and it left wayyyy too much air in the guard. I now have 18x8.75 +20mm and it fits much better, almost flush. Therefore I reckon your extra inch of rim on the rear will suit a +30mm fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From earlier in this thread

On 24/05/2011 at 7:32 PM, jrm said:

Nismo LMGT4 I have are 18x8.5+30 & 18x9.5+38

You can easily find pictures of RWD Nismo wheels. I'd say they would stick outside the guards. Depends how hektikstancenationhashtagvapebro you want your car to be, you can make them fit.

As for brake clearance, offset isn't an indicator, standard R33 GTS-t wheels are 16x6.5 +40. If those XXR wheels can't clear the brakes at 8.75", their caliper backspace is too small (i.e. "deep dish wheel design").

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, inmaniac said:

I'm not an expert, but I'd say yes, with a caveat on the front.


Your +30 on the front might be a problem pending the wheels. My 18x8.75 +35mm when fitted to the front scrubbed the caliper and just looked balls. I now run +20 on the front and it's much better.

I also had 18x8.75 +35mm on my rear and it left wayyyy too much air in the guard. I now have 18x8.75 +20mm and it fits much better, almost flush. Therefore I reckon your extra inch of rim on the rear will suit a +30mm fine.

Ahh okay the others i was looking at are 18x9 + 30mm fronts and 18x10 +18mm rears they are work GT5 set

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Anyone with bnr32 running 18 x10.5 295/35 ?
thx

I’m running 18x10.5 +15 with 295/35/18’a on my 32 GTST. Extensive work to make em fit but not too hard on a GTR. My front guards are GTR but they’re not a direct fit. Pretty sure they’ll fit rears with a light guard roll.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
17 hours ago, Ryline34 said:

I take it even flaring is pointless or trying to get GTR gaurds is out of the question?

Anyone want to buy some genuine LMGTs ?

Its theoretically possible, but you need custom/different guards.

No, you can't flare it to fit that much, not without getting them repainted etc etc. The cheapest way is to replace the guards. You're about 15mm too far out as it stands. I was able to fit a 9.5 +27 inside my R34 GTT guards.

Sell and buy some different wheels. The LMGT2's do actually come in 18x9 +32. I would have bought a set of these but they don't clear my (much larger than OEM) brakes.

http://www.importmonster.com.au/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2190&osCsid=e79e232cd40b61bcc04cab09633119d6

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello,

I'm a new '93 R33 GTST skyline owner from the US. Can you guys help me if the following sizes will fit? Or do I need to modify the fenders?

Front: 18x8.5 +35 245/40 or 235/40

Rear: 18x9.5 +22 245/40

The wheels are Varrstoen ES2

Thank you in advance!

Edited by Ecua
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...