Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea's With R34 Gtr Fronts


Ska
 Share

Recommended Posts

So I have seen 2 stagea's with R34 fronts on them here in Brisbane, a silver one and a yellow one.

Noob question, how involved is this?

I think it looks shit hot and wouldnt mind doing it, but atm $1 is out of my price range.

I know they are out there, but how much of a hassle is it? How legal is it, do you need a mod plate?

dsc071581qs.jpg

dsc071593zq.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I absolutely love them. There are a few that have crept into the country.

On that particular one above, I don't like the gab between the front of the bonnet and the grill. Not that that would stop me from owning one :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definately good. Seeing as you own a stagea, im asuming that you are contemplating this front end conversion. What you will find if you havent searched already is that sourcing that masa kit + postage is going to be a pain in the ass. Since its a prefrabricated kit there shouldnt be any hassles in terms of converting it. The lagalities of a 34 front end on a stagea i doubt will be legal but as there are many front end swaps done already ie sil80/onevia and the likes, i doubt you will have any problems with the authorities.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from memory the kit from masa is panels only and you will still need to source things such as the r34 gtr radiator support and headlights to take this into account when you start on this path

also i recall that someone in wa mentioned that here in wa it is illegal to fit plastic front guards as they dont meet adr's for crash requirements

i love the look of the front but i think cost and insurance would be a big factor for me also legality for insurance reasons

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmmmm that is a lot of money just for that look, cant justify it for about 5 years I reckon, yes I will be whipped sometime soon ;).

But yeah cool thanks for the info, still looks damn nice dont it :P

Oh also was pointed ou tthe the rear guards would look better if they were flared, as from the perspective of the camera that took those photo's it looks like the rear is not as wide as the front, as the gtr panels really fflare out, but still, I like it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
    • And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.
    • Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at.  If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
×
×
  • Create New...