Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i'll say sorry in advance because i know u guys prolly get questions like this alot.

i'm a volvo s40 owner that is selling his car to probably get a r33 s2 gtst or a 97 180sx, most probably the r33 tho, because i want a bigger roomier car than the 180 plus i just like the s2 shape.

i was just wondering if you guys had any tips on things to look out for with buying an import, people who to go to to actually buy the car in sydney, how much i should be looking at to buy a sub 60,000 km example (so i don't get jipped) and other general knowledge that i should know before buying.

thanks heaps from an import newbie..

cheers..!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84411-buying-an-r33/
Share on other sites

well first of all, its an import from japan so dont trust the kms on the clock totally, go on the overall condition of the car, the interior, and exterior. You should be able tell if its been sprayed before, should be overspray some where on the car. But its the same as buying any car. Check for any signs of damage, dodgy repairs, listen to the engine, get it checked out by a mechanic or racv place. Ive heard they are particulary hard on imports. And try and have a look at the car on a hoist and make sure its not really two cars, make sure there is no oil leaking around the turbo, and if the owner has claimed mods, see all receipts and paperwork, we can all say, yeah this has been done and that, but not always the case. And get a dyno figure if he claims anything over 180rwkw or something, use ur own discretion. There is actually a sticky on this forum that tells u in detail what to look out for.

happy hunting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84411-buying-an-r33/#findComment-1528128
Share on other sites

There's a great thread on this somewhere - i think in the general maintenence thread..

anyways - goto say - finding a SII R33 with <60,000kms that's got a real odometer reading will be quite hard..

The allblitz guys have got a pretty good one - hunsu is on the site -

http://www.allblitz.com.au/cars/japcars/98gtst.html

If your after a decent R33 SII - 40th Annv which are rarish kinda - more of them over here now i'd go for it.. it's also got optional nismo front bar and gt-r rear wing..

Check it out..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84411-buying-an-r33/#findComment-1528141
Share on other sites

If you in NSW, i suggest you check SSPI out.. www.sspi.com.au

They only import grade 4 and higher r33s.. They are well respected complicance shop and can order anything to your specs.. Theres one there site now i think..

I recommend SSPI for sure and so would many others.. trust me..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84411-buying-an-r33/#findComment-1531077
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, well, mine were 31 years old last year when they finally got done. Started to leak a bit.
    • I've ordered a new fuel pump and plan to do all the fuel tank hoses at the same time. Those are the hoses I would rather not go on the road.
    • As a general rule removing rubber fuel hose is so difficult I would replace it if it hasn't been done in the last 5 years. The risk you damage the liner or one of the inner layers is pretty high if it's not almost brand new. BMW's recommendations around coolant hoses is similar. My R33's fuel hoses at the fuel tank were so perished that they were ready to burst FYI. 
    • Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
×
×
  • Create New...