Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im possibly keen on changing my wheels to 34gtr wheels.... Anyhow, besides being a wheel whore, I definately know the fronts and rears fit.

However, the fronts are pretty dam wide, ie 9inch wide on the front... Has anybody who runs the 34gtr wheels on the front, had any issues with them at all??

People who run them, do you need to roll the front gaurds?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84443-34gtr-wheels-on-33gtst/
Share on other sites

No offence but are you sure they fit?, i know that they will physically BOLT onto the hub and all like it will fit on based on bolt pattern 5 x 114.3.

BUT

won't you run into a problem with the offset of the GTR34 rims being +22-->+30 or something. therefore meaning that the wheels will stick OUTSIDE of the guards by 1cm or more.

so in conculsion unless you have flared guards on your gts-t everytime you go over a bump the wheel will HIT the guard/arch = major headache.

No offence but are you sure they fit?, i know that they will physically BOLT onto the hub and all like it will fit on based on bolt pattern 5 x 114.3.

BUT

won't you run into a problem with the offset of the GTR34 rims being +22-->+30 or something. therefore meaning that the wheels will stick OUTSIDE of the guards by 1cm or more.

so in conculsion unless you have flared guards on your gts-t everytime you go over a bump the wheel will HIT the guard/arch = major headache.

Thats the only thing im concerned about, which is the front... Ive seen a few pics of gtst's who run 34gtr wheels, but dont know if they have rolled their gaurds or whether they get the wheel hitting the gaurds on full lock or going over bumps...

At the moment, Im running 18x8.5inch rims on the front with 30 offset, and only get scrapage on full lock, on the inside splash gaurds..

When i was in japan i saw a 33 gtst with r34 gtr rims , it didn't have the front guards rolled and i looked on the inside to see if they were hiting . The only idication was the inner plastic at the front was sraped .

Offset on gtr rims is + 30 and on gtst +38 but stock gtr rims are at least 25 mm inside the guards on both 33 and 34 gtrs .

When i was in japan i saw a 33 gtst with r34 gtr rims , it didn't have the front guards rolled and i looked on the inside to see if they were hiting . The only idication was the inner plastic at the front was sraped .

Offset on gtr rims is + 30 and on gtst +38 but stock gtr rims are at least 25 mm inside the guards on both 33 and 34 gtrs .

Just curious to whether the gtst you saw in jap, was lowered heaps??? My car is around 2inches lower than standard and I get the scrub on the plastic inner guards on the front....

Just curious to whether the gtst you saw in jap, was lowered heaps??? My car is around 2inches lower than standard and I get the scrub on the plastic inner guards on the front....

I think it was stock height , i have a pic somewhere but it would be to big to post here . It was in a used car place ( the gtr shop ) in Osaka and they had another one there with r33 gtr rims as well . The one with the 34 rims had a price of 780,000 yen .

I think it was stock height , i have a pic somewhere but it would be to big to post here . It was in a used car place ( the gtr shop ) in Osaka and they had another one there with r33 gtr rims as well . The one with the 34 rims had a price of 780,000 yen .

I guess the only way to find out is to find a pair and try them on :P Heres a pic of my car attatched, so what do you guys thing, GTR34 wheels or stick with the te37's?

post-8103-1124409572.jpg

as much as i do like the 34 rims the te37 rock!

I would leave em on.

The black gtst with the 34gtr rims looks like an overlander its sitting that high! of course the wheels aren't going to scrape when its sitting that high:-) new jap craze? ahahah!

Checl out the clearances between the front and rear tyre and the guards. mine basically sits ....well nearly inside it and do does yours MR G.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For me at least the reason why it bothers me is because it's indicative of a deeper problem. And that will nag at me forever. Especially because I have tailpipe emissions testing + evap leak testing every 2 years.
    • WELP. I went to the track, and I suppose it went okay because any time you can drive home is okay. You may notice the car is not on the circuit in this picture. It was about 35C day out in Benalla which means the track was approximately the surface of the sun, probably. Good things, car did not overheat but it _was_ warmer than when I had done track days in similar heat before, I think, I'm not sure - I can't quite remember. Coolant got to ~105 via the ECU after 20-30 minutes of belting it in said heat. Oil got up to 145C in one instance which is pretty crazy due to oil cooler. Pressures were fine. I seem to remember this not getting quite so high before the vents. More HMMMM'ing to be done. On the subject of HMMM'ing, can anyone identify the sounds in the video below, you will know which ones I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj3BkI2cbTc I included some 'normal' sound as a reference for the first minute or so. The microphone in this instance was where the license plate is. It stopped working later in the day which is why my "best example of a lap video (not produced)" had internal audio - Isn't hearable from inside the car. I don't mean the chirping of the un-bedded/badly bedded track brakes which you can only hear while braking... Thoughts, brains trust?
    • blame old mate Hawkins for that one  I remember way back in the day the japanese didn't want them either... they always assumed a race shell would be thrashed. We found a few when looking for an R34 GTR for the Whites to drive in Targa Tas back in 2002.
    • I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).
    • I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption? FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...