Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i bought a bosch 040 fuel pump thinking it was a good straight swap with the standard r33 one. had my mechanic look insdie my fuel tank today and he ripped out the original and just scratched his head.. said it didnt look like the 040 was going to mount in. he said he was unsure alos if he did put it in weather it would at a unsafe level

just wondering how other have got one of these pumps in

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84526-r33-changeing-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

He told me to keep it above 1/4 tank to be safe, but I've driven it a bit beyond that and I haven't had fuel pickup problems..I think that was just a cautious figure..it is higher, but not by that much.

I put one of those in myself and also try to keep it above the 1/4 level to be safe. Just need to modify the cradle a little bit so it'll fit.

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

GOTO the diy forum and look at the pictures on my install...

You will see i cut the bottom of the bracket off and bent it slightlly. Mine now sits at the same height as the pickup and dont have to worry about running out of fuel....

Please use stainless clamps and not zip ties as they can slip and contact the power against the fuel tank.... (<<<BANG>>>)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79865

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting. Some of them were tight to lol
    • That's right, simple but works. Run out of load? Rescale the table lol. Want to be lazy and not rescale? Drag the K
    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...