Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

check if there is a leak under the power steering resivoir..(??) the little bottle which has redish liquid inside... also check how much inside, should be neary full.... i dunno about r32s, (because I dont like them) but in my r33 it had a different diff and there was also a power steering fluid bottle in the boot .. if you have one of these (dont think you would) check it too

The HICAS controlles the power stearing, there is a high speed and low speed mode. If the speed wire is cut it get's stuck in high speed mode. I had the same prob, I soldered a bridge wire from the speedo to the HICAS speed sensor wire.

The best way to test is to get a multi meter. the HICAS box in the boot (on the drivers side in my car) has a yellow wire with a green trace, if you unplug the conector and put a probe with a extention wire on it, and put the lead round to the drivers seat. Now you need to pull out the speedo, there should be 3 plugs in the back of it. on the middle plug is the other end of the yellow/green wire. Put the other end of the probe there, and put the multimeter on resistance mode. If you get a reading your wire is fine. if not you have to find where the break is.

i had the same problem... last monday i blocked my stock BOV so i can get my car to flotter.. while drivin it the hicas light came on and my power steering stifended up... now today, i just got my Apexi BOV put on and it happend again, but this time i hav'nt blocked off the return pipe form the stock BOV in to my air intake. what should i block it off wit?? its steel so i cant really cut it...a ny idea's??

My HICAS light comes on when I turn left!

I had the wheels aligned not long ago and have had the problem since....

SAME!!

my wheels are badly aligned tho, i hope getting an alignment can fix mine

I wouldn't wast too much time with HICAS, a locking bar might be the best solution and just get rid of it.

At high speed,active HICAS can make the car feel pretty nervous.

more scary when it dosn't work, and moves under high force, or bumps in the road.

Edited by sav man

so no 1 realy knows how to fix it?? i noticed in the skyline R32 the power stearing aint that light? could this be my hicas or are they always like this? or could this be because its stuck in hi speed mode?

i had a look and my power stearing fluid was 2 high.. so i dranied some and now it dosnt come on as often! tonight i had a little race with a 180 and just after it the hicas light came on...

i am still to try this speed wire test.. but i dont have the right equipment!

thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

I am experiencing exactly what you are experiencing Drift Squad except the Hicas subframe has been removed on my R32 GTR i.e. no more Hicas. The ECU has also been reprogrammed/chipped. The hoses were also plumbed back from where the Hicas was removed.

The car has power steering for the first few minutes and then reasonably quickly the steering becomes heavy at which time the Hicas light comes on until the car is turned off. When it is started again the above symptoms are repeated.

Any ideas?

so no 1 realy knows how to fix it?? i noticed in the skyline R32 the power stearing aint that light? could this be my hicas or are they always like this? or could this be because its stuck in hi speed mode?

i had a look and my power stearing fluid was 2 high.. so i dranied some and now it dosnt come on as often! tonight i had a little race with a 180 and just after it the hicas light came on...

i am still to try this speed wire test.. but i dont have the right equipment!

thanks

HICAS has been covered to death on this forum. A search would have told you everything you need :P

Yes, it can be fixed (assuming the mechanicals and electronics aren't damaged). Usually its one of the following or a combination (in rough order of occurence):

1) Low powersteering fluid.

2) Aftermarket steering wheel with wrong or incorrectly installed BOSS kit.

3) Poor wheel alignment.

4) Speed sensor wire has been cut.

5) Leaking powersteering hoses.

ah, the BOSS kit BTW is HBK ON-115, not the ON-110

The ON-110 is for the NON-HICAS GTS-ts (and GTS4's I think)

The ON-115 is compatible with HICAS

incorrect

if it comes with the plug its compatible and it does

last night i changed my steering wheel and when i fitted the new 1 its slightly off centre, it caused the light to come on...

easy fix though.

Edited by silver gts-t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I steam cleaned my near new set of volk gtc wheels 14 years ago and farrkkked them lol. The clear coat cracked like spider webbing in several areas. Lesson learnt don't do that. 😭
    • If you don't touch the CAS, then you're fine.
    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
    • I hear the old "I'd never use a pressure washer on my motorbike" BS in the dirtbike community too.  The only people that have had a problem from using a pressure washer on anything are the people that aren't using them properly.  If you hold the wand any more than 45 cms away from pretty much anything (radiators, wiring connectors, paint, etc) you aren't going to cause any damage.  We've had detailers wreck moulds and seals on cars at work before and the only reason why is they held the pressure washer too close and on the one spot for too long.  If you have 5% more brain power than a detailer then you know not to not do that and you'll never have a problem.
    • I'm pretty much healed up post surgery so I spent another almost full day out in the shed re-arranging everything to make room for all of the shit that I've taken off the car.  I need to get everything off the floor and away from the car for when I start making a massive mess stripping off the remaining body deadener and then for the the painting process.  Almost got the shed to a point now where I feel I can actually start working on the car again (clean shed clean mind or something!).  Almost 11 years of accumulated car parts, building supplies, tools, junk, etc have taken a long time to get in some sort of order again!  Most stuff is now boxed up and in the back shed if it's not car related.  Most people would still be horrified walking into my shed but it's significantly better than it was before!   For those that saw my separate post the other day, yeah I ordered one.... This version- I convinced myself to stop being a clown, wake up to yourself and realise it will take you 5 weeks to make one by which stage you're over working on the car again...  Maybe I am getting on top of my "mental ailments" and making smarter choices.... $1450 delivered which will take my miserable half-dutch arse a few days to get over having spent that much!  If I don't have a use for it straight away after my car is off it I might even see if there is a "rental market" for them.  See if anyone wants to hire it for a period of time.  $25 a week or something like that.  I'll worry about that when my car is actually ready to come off it though as that might be a while away!! There's now no excuses now for not ending up with an underside you could eat off! Away for kids sport the next few weekends so hopefully can get the rotisserie assembled ready to go for the car to go straight on it the next available weekend.    
×
×
  • Create New...