Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just bought a recent mag a HPI, its got like 4 full pages on the Z-tune. i want them rims...

They are just Nismo LM GT4s IIRC, so they aren't that hard to get.

A question to Tosh: what's the go with exporting a car already in complied in Australia to Japan, having it further modified, and bringing it back in to the country? Are there any requirements for re-complying the car?

Latest BMI is all about it

Its been floating around the interweb for a month or two. It has an interesting segment about the Z tune which details the construction and planning stages. Unfortunately, apart from a short squirt one a public road, you don't get much in the way of driving impression. Hopefully some wealthy Japanese person will buy one and loan it to BMI and HVI to test :D

The english version dvd only just got released in aus. I got my copy a few days ago with latest hot version but havent watched em yet.

That might be the case, but I can assure you the english version has been available in the usual places for quite awhile now :D

They are just Nismo LM GT4s IIRC, so they aren't that hard to get.

A question to Tosh:  what's the go with exporting a car already in complied in Australia to Japan, having it further modified, and bringing it back in to the country?  Are there any requirements for re-complying the car?

Actually they aren't just any LMGT4's... they are 18x9.5JJ +5 offset in black. Nismo do not sell these rims seperately (unless you have connections i suppose).

For comparison, a standard R34 GTR would use 18x9.5JJ +12 offset LMGT4's. The +5's look a little nicer imo.

I guess you could just grab a set of +12's and paint them black tho and voila!

Actually they aren't just any LMGT4's... they are 18x9.5JJ +5 offset in black. Nismo do not sell these rims seperately (unless you have connections i suppose).

For comparison, a standard R34 GTR would use 18x9.5JJ +12 offset LMGT4's. The +5's look a little nicer imo.

I guess you could just grab a set of +12's and paint them black tho and voila!

You can buy the LM GT4s in black (well, second hand at least): I know, I bid on a set :D For example: http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k24062019

What you say about offsets is I'm sure correct, but my point was that its still an LM GT4 design from what I've seen (even if it is a different offset to normal).

Lucien.

would these vehicles only be able to be complied for race/rally as wouldnt they be way too modified for sevs

Good question - these cars are actually remanufactured by Nismo and given new chassis numbers (R34-Z-nnn). Still, I think there would be significant issues in complying one for road use directly from Japan...

Having said that, the evidence for the Skyline R34 already exists and most of that would be the same for the Z-Tune, I dont know if a RAWS could work it that way though. Powerplay would probably have done the homework...

Edited by sewid
You can buy the LM GT4s in black (well, second hand at least):  I know, I bid on a set :D  For example:  http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k24062019

What you say about offsets is I'm sure correct, but my point was that its still an LM GT4 design from what I've seen (even if it is a different offset to normal).

Lucien.

Just like the rest of the car, you could build it yourself to the same spec for far cheaper

Just like the rest of the car, you could build it yourself to the same spec for far cheaper

Yep. You could do it yourself cheaper no doubt and probably even better and faster. It's more of a enthusiasts dream car than best all round GTR ever.

I still rate the Mine's R34 GTR as my favourite street GTR.

They are just Nismo LM GT4s IIRC, so they aren't that hard to get.

A question to Tosh:  what's the go with exporting a car already in complied in Australia to Japan, having it further modified, and bringing it back in to the country?  Are there any requirements for re-complying the car?

Nope, not a thing mate AFAIK ;)

Just like the rest of the car, you could build it yourself to the same spec for far cheaper

Sure,

However you definately wont get a manufacturers warranty with it.

and the prestige of being built by Nismo

Good question - these cars are actually remanufactured by Nismo and given new chassis numbers (R34-Z-nnn). Still, I think there would be significant issues in complying one for road use directly from Japan...

Having said that, the evidence for the Skyline R34 already exists and most of that would be the same for the Z-Tune, I dont know if a RAWS could work it  that way though. Powerplay would probably have done the homework...

We have ;)

it's all good

The prestige is only good for someone that is going to buy 1 and then lock it away and just look at it for the rest of its life

That's true and it comes down to the person buying it however the warranty is a fairly large advantage of this car over any other modified car.

The prestige is only good for someone that is going to buy 1 and then lock it away and just look at it for the rest of its life

I dunno about that: doesn't seem to be the case for a lot of Ferrari/Porsche/Lambo/AMG/M-power/blah blah blah cars ;)

I'd also be suprised if you could get the same level of fit, finish and detail as Nismo gets.

I dunno about that: doesn't seem to be the case for a lot of Ferrari/Porsche/Lambo/AMG/M-power/blah blah blah cars ;)

I'd also be suprised if you could get the same level of fit, finish and detail as Nismo gets.

Ferrari/porsches/lambos can be bought at any time from anywhere so there aint no big deal to the people than can afford them

Ferrari/porsches/lambos can be bought at any time from anywhere so there aint no big deal to the people than can afford them

Yeah, but you don't see them buying a 318i and installing a supercharged M3 drivetrain even though it would be a much cheaper way to achieve better than M3 performance. I think they quite like the fact its got an uber expensive badge on it.

Besides, people who buy beautiful cars and lock them up should be shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
×
×
  • Create New...