Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys atm i am working to make 200rwkw after my last dyno of a shit 140rwkw due to poor tune and lack of a few things

Mods last dyno

Gts-t R33 rb25det

Link Plug in replacement ECU tunes by poor shop at 7psi on 95oct fuel

PWR INTERCOOLER

K & N POD

Trust Catback

Now my new plan is mod then retune it at MRT in Sydney On 12psi and get near 200rwkw

New Mods that i hope help me get to 200rwkw

Dump and front Pipe Twin set up off BOS

Hi flow Catco cat

PLUMB BACK BLOW OFF VALVE caust stock one isn't working right Flutters on 7psi

loud ( NOT sure on what brand anyone know any good ones for Plumb backs

custom 3" pipe intake from turbo to Pod without AFM due to link computer

last of all thinking Cam Gears but will they heap on stock cams

anyone know if cam gears will gain more power r they worth the money also what brand

OS GIKEN or TOMEI

thinking about new Timing beat too while cam gears r off

what u guys think

Edited by scottman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84593-adjustable-cam-gears-on-stock-cams/
Share on other sites

Those mods with a good tune should push you to that figure, or very close to it.

But if you looked in the Quick Ref guide at the top of this forum you would have seen the following threads

Ex. Cam Gear: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...41&page=1&pp=25

Dump Pipe: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=10567

btw, 140kw is what you would expect for a near stock Skyline. That must have been a really really bad tune..

Those mods with a good tune should push you to that figure, or very close to it.

But if you looked in the Quick Ref guide at the top of this forum you would have seen the following threads

Ex. Cam Gear: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...41&page=1&pp=25

Dump Pipe: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=10567

btw, 140kw is what you would expect for a near stock Skyline. That must have been a really really bad tune..

I know 140rwkw is low but i beat one of my mates with a gts-t with a full exhaust so i am guessing maybe the dyno was just out been just beaten by a 180sx and onces by a gts-t with least mods then mine he was a better driver

I am Hoping its just the Tune Mrt will work out whats holding my Power back

Tony,

Cmon you should know better ;) Those are the "Revision 1" HKS gears. The "Rev. 2" gears -- which use duralumin -- don't appear to have the same problems.

Edit: I'd still look at getting the Tomei gears as part of the camshaft + camgear packages they do.

LW.

Cam gears will make some difference, but not 60+ kw. (AFAIK, all they do is move the power band, they don't necessarily make more power).

I suspect it's the tune. I'm running a RB25DET on a Wolf 3D. It has VVT, and is otherwise stock. It was tuned at 10psi on 95 octane, and pushes 180 kW out through 4 wheels (R32 GTS4). Granted it does also have a "hi-flo" cat and a dump pipe, but still runs the factory air box and filter.

Hey whats the deal, is there something freaky about my car cause i got it dynoed with minor mods (see sig) and even at 7psi it was pulling 169rwkw, and was 186rwkw @ 10psi.

Was dynoed at unigroup, i would have thought scottmans would have been more powerful...

Must be UBER dodgy tune

i have no idea why its only 140rwkw i am hoping to try and fix it hoping its just the tune

other things it cound be is Fuel Pump or injectors or something MRT will find out hoping to fix it :P

still i own lots of shit with 140rwkw :blink:

I thought it was shited so i went and raced my mates Gts-t r33 with a Full Exhaust and BOV and i beat him so i have no Idea maybe it was the dyno

If you want to try adjusting the inlet gear whilst keeping the use of your VVT, PM me.

I've got a little invention that may just help you out.

Yo bass.Have you made some for r33 now.Or is this a trick that you have up your sleve.

I have the newer HKS gear and its fine....

Didnt gain anything at all... Just got a few more km's per tank and smoothed out the top end.... No jerky action inbetween 6-7000k....

AND more importantlly i got FLAMES>>>>> LOL

Scottman, what dyno was it on ? The dynologs read alot lower than the DynoDynamics ones (most common).

I just had car on dyno yesterday to retune, and all i could get was 145 rwkw's (Dynolog)

(was tuning it myself)

Now bear in mind this is S1 R33 GTST, std turbo

3" turbo back, and i just put a 4" magic cat in (which does work well by the way , 4 gas analyser confirmed)

I have a plug in LINK. No AFM (3" SS Pipe to pod)

Carbon cleaned it too.

R34 GTT cooler

And just fixxed the coil probs with a mates 32 GTR coils borrowed till the splitfires arrive... also new BKR6EIX iridiums (.8mm std gap). After last tune the coils shat themselves , siliconed them to get by, but power was flat...

Also fitted a MV auto shift kit.

Its been a busy 2 weeks !

Heading out to drags again tonight to see how it goes...

Two weeks ago with it feeling flat it ran a 14.6 @ 95.3 mph So i hope i can get a 13 tonight ... time will tell.

I think you should go out to the strip and just see what mph your getting ......that will be a better indication of how well the cars going.... as your dyno may read low as well.

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...