I Think My Alternator Is Dead, Need Advice

[Nozila]

Hi guys/girls,

A strange thing happened to my car today which has caused what I believe the alternator to die on me. What happened was this morning was that I took out my battery to use it to start my brothers car (nothing out of the ordinary) and placed it back into my car and it started fine. Drove it and then when I went back to the car after a few hrs to start it, I noticed that the alternator was still ticking over when I had started the engine. Even when the ignition was placed to the On position it still keep turning over, taking the keys out still had it going.

So I started it again and it seemed as though the sound had gone but not long after I was driving it, I heard a squeeling noise which I only picked up not long after the rain has cleared but by then I saw smoke coming out of my engine bay and that was when I suddenly lost all my power. Popped the bonnet and a strange smell was coming from the alternator. Now im assuming that is dead/going as I could not start the car at all, only managed to get it started by pushing/1st gear clutch starting it. Once I got it home, it now starts but struggles alot and the same strange smell is coming from the alternator region.

Sorry for the long post but just though Id explain in detail what happened.

[Nozila]

Just noticed I placed it in the wrong section, someone send it the the general maintence section please. Thanks

[Nozila]

Can anyone give a rough price new/used for an alternator and also how do I go about removing it?

[JaFF]

I had a different problem but I got mine reconditioned for just over $100.

It wasn't a full reco, just a replacement of the parts that were stuffed

[Nozila]

I just called a local auto electrician and they quoted a couple of hundred for a rebuild while an importer said $140 - $150 for a 2nd hand one. BTW all alternators on r33 gtst's are the same, right?

[r33_racer]

more then likely they are all the same. Have you had a look at the wiring and plugs from there and around it. You said there was a ticking sound, i didnt know alternators made a ticking sound. You sure you arent referring to the starter motor that was ticking away?

[SteveL]

Drove it and then when I went back to the car after a few hrs to start it, I noticed that the alternator was still ticking over when I had started the engine. Even when the ignition was placed to the On position it still keep turning over, taking the keys out still had it going.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

To me it sounds like your describing the starter motor...the alternator should be turning with the engine running, but the starter shouldn't.

[Nozila]

more then likely they are all the same.  Have you had a look at the wiring and plugs from there and around it.  You said there was a ticking sound,  i didnt know alternators made a ticking sound.  You sure you arent referring to the starter motor that was ticking away?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No havent looked at the wiring and voltage around there yet. Yes, that correct when I first when to start the car there was a continous ticking sound even though I got the car started (as though was stuck on START). realising this I turned off the ignition and pulled out the keys but keep going.

To me it sounds like your describing the starter motor...the alternator should be turning with the engine running, but the starter shouldn't.

At the moment when Im starting the car I have it give it some throttle for it to start but it seems as though it wants to die on me when doing it though. Besides, once started there is a strange smell coming from the alternator region (smells like burnt electrical things) much like the same smell when the engine just shutted down and smoke coming out of engine bay when I was driving although not as strong.

Since you two suspect its the starter motor Im numb folded as to which of the two component is actually is now as Im just describing as I see it.

[Sumo]

Hey Nozila, as they have said an altenator is driven by the engine, a starter drives the engine

Now I have seen starter motors lock in mesh (when they engage the ring gear) and what happens is they usually flare all the windings and are unrepairable if the engine continues to run with them engaged.

An altenator will not cause a car to keep trying to start even after you pull your keys out of the ignition. This problem can be a multitude of things, right from the electrical switch on the back of your ignition barrel, or a problem in the starter.

I have seen the copper contacts weld together in a starter motor from trying to start with very very discharged battery.

Its process of elimination mate, I wish I could help you more - but I live in North West NSW - in the bush

Cheers

Sumo

[Sumo]

That smell you can smell is what we call at work the "dollar smell", coz you know its going to cost alot of dollars to repair

Sorry about me making a joke, if you handy with a spanner, pull your starter off and smell inside the nost cone, if you can smell the "dollar" smell go and get a second hand one

Cheers

Sumo

[Nozila]

Sumo, thanks for the advice I will do just that. Unlike earlier today when the car didnt want to start at all, it now does but struggles to turn over needing the help of throttle action. Say i wanted to check the voltage on my alternator though, would i just measure the lead that is coming out of it from the back and what voltage should it be?

thanks,

duc.

[Bl4cK32]

the alternator sits basically in front (towards the front) of the starter motor, and its easy to think one is playing up when its the other.

I cant remember exactly, but there is a power feed going from the alternator directly to the starter solenoid.

It sounds like the starter solenoid (the small round part on top of the starter) has shagged it, and may be playing funny buggers with the alternator (due to its direct feed from the alt.)

Ive got a spare starter motor here you are welcome to try, and if it sorts your problem, you are welcome to have it for $50

Its an easy job to get the starter out too...2 bolts, and 2 nuts....oh and a skinned knuckle or 2

[Nozila]

I might just have to pop around and take you up on that offer. As well as listening to how it starts, as a picture paints a thousand words.

[Godzilla32]

Use a multi meter to read the current coming out of the alternator at idle. Put hte positive lead on the cable coming out of the alternator and put the negative lead on an earthing spot. You should see about 13-13.8 volts at idle.

Hope this helps,

Deren

[Nozila]

I just went outside to start the car and check on the voltage. Car still struggles to start but does, i measured the voltage (using a multimeter) from the lead going into the alternator (red plug over the lead) and it showed 14.5v which means that its charging the battery and thus isnt the culprit, I assume? Also, does anyone know that when my engine suddenly lost all power that it may have an adverse effect upon the engine?

[Nozila]

What a co-incidence, I just did that. Read previous post. But its at 14.5 instead of higher 13's, is that unsual or normal?

[Godzilla32]

Well it is high but i cant see that being a problem. Make sure all the cables an conections to and fromt he battery are all good. I had a simialr problem once where the car would just die and it was the terminal on the battery. If you have msn add me there id be happy to help more [email protected]

[Nozila]

cheers mate. I will do just that (add you to msn that is). =D

[Nozila]

I can rule out the battery being dead/drained which has caused the car to stuggle when starting. As I disconnected the battery and charged it for a good few hours, whilst I was at it cleaned the battery tray/terminals, but it seems the car still struggles to start. Starting to narrow it down, 1 down 2 to go.

[Cubes]

14.5v is fine for a cold start, once everything warms up voltage will drop to high 13's maybe flat 14's.

The regulator is designed to feed more voltage in to the battery when it is cold rather than when everything has warmed up. Its apparently the way battery's like to be charged, less volts when warm, more when cold.