Jump to content
SAU Community

Help 2530 Wastegate Feedline?

1400r

By 1400r,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
Posted (edited)

Put my new(s/h) 2530 on my car (R32 4 door RB20Det) today all went well until I discovered the turbo does not have a inlet on the front of it for the line that comes from the wastegate like on the stock turbo. So I connected it by Ting one of the carbon cannisters lines is this ok?

it seems to only start making any boost till 2,800 rpm and full stock boost .7 bar doesnt hit till 3,500 this seems right to me but I thought it would start spooling earlier as the stocko seems to start spooling start away. Please keep in mind that my car is very much a stock just exhaust and filter at the moment.

Do I also need to keep the small stock hose as Im just using a longer section of fuel hose at the moment Im assuming the stock hose has a restrictor in it? (my 180 had one)

It pulls very hard compared to the stock turbo up high Any help would be great thanks

HELP!

Edited by 1400r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84727-help-2530-wastegate-feedline/
Share on other sites
1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

help I took the connection of the front of the stock turbo and put it on the 2530 as it had a alan key bolt blocking up the normal hole. So I could hook the old wastegate hose up to the same as the stock turbo setup now it only boosts to .4 bar whats going on is the wastegate stuffed? it felt fairly loose before I put the turbo on now Ive got to stuff around with it again and put it back the way it was buggar

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't 'T' the wastegate actuator off the carbon canister hose because the line is very long and also reads boost from the manifold side of the throttlebody.

I think you should keep the line on the fitting on the compressor cover.

I think the HKS actuator should be able to hold .7 bar and it should have an adjustable length arm.

I'd look at the adjustment to see if it's loose.

If that's ok have someone check the actuator spring tension.

If you want more boost get a boost controller don't plumb your actuator to a weak indirect boost signal like the canister purge line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Drive By Wire Conversion options

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I recently got their dbw 74mm throttle body and pedal kit. It is sensational quality especially the wiring harnesses. Unfortunately I can’t answer u about the fitment to stock inlet manifold as I’m going Rahjab Racing forward plenum. Only one thing to be careful of is understand u have to pay gst and import fees if your purchase is over $1,000 in one shipment.
    • pogman
      George's R33 GTST build

      By pogman · Posted

      yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • The Bogan
      George's R33 GTST build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • shortyboy
      Drive By Wire Conversion options

      By shortyboy · Posted

      Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • pogman
      George's R33 GTST build

      By pogman · Posted

      small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
×
×
  • Create New...