Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Intercoolers or FMIC (frount mount intercooler) work by cooling the air that is heated by your turbo as it spins close to 100,000 rpm. Cooler air is more dense thus creates more power. The advantage in replacing the stock (piss small) intercooler is the reduction in intake temperatures allows for you to increase the boost using a bleed valve or electronic boost controller. This increases power however a FMIC is generally considered to be best left until a decent cat back exaust system and pod/panel filter has been added. Well thats my understanding on it all anyway. :)

No way this will be a waste of money.. the device is actually intended for cooling.. Any device, no matter where the application is, if something is gettin cooled, it benfits!!!

From where are you gettin that info from???

Do buy the front mount for sure!!!

hmm the front mount wont create lag at all.. If im wrong, someone correct me..

yeah definetly get the front mount.

My intercooler added a little bit of lag if i remember correctly.. im guessing they should because theres alot more piping for the air to go through ?? mighta just been me though ?

No way this will be a waste of money.. the device is actually intended for cooling.. Any device, no matter where the application is, if something is gettin cooled, it benfits!!!

From where are you gettin that info from???

Do buy the front mount for sure!!!

hmm the front mount wont create lag at all.. If im wrong, someone correct me..

No way this will be a waste of money.. the device is actually intended for cooling.. Any device, no matter where the application is, if something is gettin cooled, it benfits!!!

From where are you gettin that info from???

Do buy the front mount for sure!!!

hmm the front mount wont create lag at all.. If im wrong, someone correct me..

Misunderstanding there. Just saying if he did have exaust and Pod (which it turns out he has) a FMIC would be the next logical step. At no point did i say this is waste of money infact far from it. Espessially when coolers are getting so much cheaper.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79523

:(

Misunderstanding there. Just saying if he did have exaust and Pod (which it turns out he has) a FMIC would be the next logical step. At no point did i say this is waste of money infact far from it. Espessially when coolers are getting so much cheaper.

uh?? im confused now.. i know u didnt say its a waste of money.. im tellin the guy who made the thread, that its not a waste of money.. i dunno im confused now..

ANyways my opinion is to buy it, as it will help!!

uh?? im confused now.. i know u didnt say its a waste of money.. im tellin the guy who made the thread, that its not a waste of money.. i dunno im confused now..

ANyways my opinion is to buy it, as it will help!!

I am the Guy who made the thread. Your help has been good. and yes I will buy a cooler.

thanx :D

Edited by woolls

Please recommend place where to get a good intercooler for a good price. I am also looking to do the same mods. (POD, Intercooler, 2 Stage Boost Controller & dump pipe)

wools - you found a place yet!! maybe we can get a discount if we get both our cars done from the same place.

I found a place but the guy wants to charge me 5Gs for all the above. 2G for intercooler, which I think is TOO MUCH??

Edited by harryg

An intercooler makes a decent upgrade but if you are afraid of increasing lag and spending loads of money you could go for a second hand R34 GT-t intercooler. It is a straight bolt on upgrade to the R33 gtst but flows about twice as much. You can pick them up on the forums very cheap too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...