Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skyline33,

The 2.8 litre in an R33 is probably a variant of the HKS 2.8litre stroker kit, while I wouldn't bother on and RB25 the kits do get used alot in high-horsepower cars in Japan. The kit is over $10K, therefore you would have to seriously consider an RB30 style engine at that price.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-124188
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

there is a guy in adelaide who has a rb24det its in a cefiro the motor was sold to huddy from kansia on port rd

the motor made 230rwkw and a shit load of down low cant remember what turbo or injectors but had a remaped ecu and gtr fuel pump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2839279
Share on other sites

personally i see figures like 230, even 280rwkw as a joke for the RB24.

When is someone going to crack the 300-350rwkw mark with an RB24? will it HAVE to be me? (if i eventually go through with it, and don't chose RB30DETT)

I mean, christ, we've seen standard displacement RB20's hit figures like that.... Anyone wanna throw some money at me to build a propper mean RB24 the way it should be done? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840162
Share on other sites

yet to see or hear of a single 24 here to crack 300rwkw. Even then it wouldn't be THAT fantastic considering the figures some standard displacement engines are putting out. I think 350rwkw should really be the benchmark for 24's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840286
Share on other sites

Its whatever they want to do with it...its there cars. I wouldnt expect a 350rwkws RB24 to be any quicker then a 280rwkws RB24 until you get to over 180km/h

all depends on the setup of everything else IMO. Would be interesting to see though.

I do understand what you mean about it being their car though. Would be nice to see an "all out" "extreme" RB24, showing what it can REALLY do.

Funding anyone? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840302
Share on other sites

I priced a solid lifter conversion with big cams, head work etc etc and all up came out just under the 6k mark. Throw a modded RB26 crank at it with some Eagle rods, $1000 for ARP studs, another $1500 for gaskets and water pump and $1500 for machining and assembly and im not surprised why we dont see many. The you still need to spend money on gearbox, clutch, fuel pump, imjectors, IC, probably a better inlet plenum, turbo, manifold and gate. Its easily a 20k job :)

But you would end up with an engine that would rev harder then any RB26, have reasonable bottom end courtesy of the displacement bump which will allow you to crawl around on the street. But throw a big GT3540 etc at it and it will be interesting to see what power it makes at 9,000rpm :stupid:

But really that wouldnt be the end of it, when throwing an RB25 box at it you may as well throw a close ratio gear set at it as well.

LOL...i have given it lots of thought, and considered all the parts i would need for my little GTSt to try and keep pace with the big power Vic GTR guys...and its simly too much money for the likes of me. Especially when you can get good power out of a std motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840331
Share on other sites

Well hey, i manage to drive my twin turbo RB20 around the street just fine. Im sure it'd be fine.

Though i was thinking for a killer 24 setup, maybe using a forged and balanced aftermarket 26 crank, and forged/prepper rods etc. Just to try and get the most out of it.

What ever im going to go ahead with, it will be spaced out over a few years, for affordabilaty's sake. Unless somene throws me a wad of money, or i come by a nice pay rise, or something :).

The full RB24 setup with slightly oversized valves, solid lifters, big cams, ported and polished head etc. Maybe with twin HKS GT28 series turbos. Or if you are feeling adventurous perhaps twin 3040's or 3240's? :stupid:

Seeing i already have the RB26 adaptor plates made up, can just pick up manifolds and turbos off the shelf.

LOL...i have given it lots of thought, and considered all the parts i would need for my little GTSt to try and keep pace with the big power Vic GTR guys...and its simly too much money for the likes of me. Especially when you can get good power out of a std motor.

When you actually DO do it though, and you realized what you have achieved, i reckon it'd be worth it :P

Then again, pulling a figure of like 6-700rwkw with an RB30 would be nice too :P (just as a "dyno queen", it won't guarantee fast times :P)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840341
Share on other sites

Yeh, i thought about the HKS 2.8L crank as well. Thought...but you are talking huge money on an engine...where i really think at that point you are not doing yourself any favours. You are better off just throwing it all in an RB26 and having a much better result for all that money spent.

Its all talk anyway, i dont see how you can justify that sort of expense on a motor that isnt beign used in competition.

Rather then go crazy on bottom ends, i would be far more interested in seeing what a std stroke RB20, with 82mm pistons with solid lifters, porting and oversized valves and modded combustion chamber, inlet etc etc

If you are going to beat your chest using an RB20 it has to use the std crank...also makes the build a whole lot cheaper...relatively :)

Like i said, i have thought about it a lot...and have almost got all the parts for my cheater RB20...mine is on a strict budget which means i have taken some shortcuts and cheated :stupid:

..i will add. A 240-260rwkws RB20 is bery nice to drive on the street. Its quiet and easy to cruise in. I imagine with more power it would only be easier to drive as the power band moves up the rev range. Its when you are off the road and you can use the revs and drive at speeds to enjoy them that they become challenging to drive :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840356
Share on other sites

"personally i see figures like 230, even 280rwkw as a joke for the RB24.

When is someone going to crack the 300-350rwkw mark with an RB24? will it HAVE to be me? (if i eventually go through with it, and don't chose RB30DETT)"

Errr your joking right 32 gtst imported by my work 2.4 + T88 = 405rwkw

all in a package that looked like a stocker from the outside

and 355rwkw at a SA SAU dyno day so its already been done a proven

japs build tough cars the end

Im sure Huddys package would make alot of grunt to if he put a bigger turbo on than the 2530

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840370
Share on other sites

"personally i see figures like 230, even 280rwkw as a joke for the RB24.

When is someone going to crack the 300-350rwkw mark with an RB24? will it HAVE to be me? (if i eventually go through with it, and don't chose RB30DETT)"

Errr your joking right 32 gtst imported by my work 2.4 + T88 = 405rwkw

all in a package that looked like a stocker from the outside

and 355rwkw at a SA SAU dyno day so its already been done a proven

japs build tough cars the end

Im sure Huddys package would make alot of grunt to if he put a bigger turbo on than the 2530

Im pretty sure somewhere up there i said im "yet to see"

Now that i have "seen", then i stand corrected :)

Anyway, would a 2.8L crank even fit? Wouldn't that give a different end result?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2840382
Share on other sites

I've been toying with the idea of a "cheater" rb20 too...and i'm leaning towards getting the 82mm tomei pistons...can someone tell me whats the maximum piston size we can use for a rb20 block? Can 4a-gze pistons can be used with the standard crank? and if so what work needs to be done to use them?

I'm not keen on the idea of stroking it as i want to keep the short stroke of the rb20 so i'm just looking at boring the block out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8478-rb24/page/2/#findComment-2841035
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...