Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I got one and still looking for a place to mount it in the engine bay. I don't like the idea of running giant hoses over the top of the engine like so many cars in Japan do to place it in the washer bottle area.

Plus they are shiny and who doesn't love shiny things in engine bays?

Catch cans "catch" the oil as it is sucked out of the cam cover and before it is sucked into the induction system

Not having an oil catch can results in a few problems (none of them are life threatining)

1) The oil coats the inside of the induction system including the intercooler which reduces its cooling eficiency.

2) Oil burns in the engine and fowls plugs, and screws up the fuel mixture, although I can't really see how this will lean out the ratio as f1williams suggested - please explain. If oil is being sucked into the engine the A/F ratio will go down and the octain rating will go up. From the factory the scavaging system is closed loop, so no more air will get to the engine.

Well, like I already said.....my hoses are clear, that way I can see if any oil is draining out of them. ...and again, like I already said, there is anything draining, so I'm guessing the road is just fine. Guess no body reads posts anymore...

If I was pulled over, why would a cop open up my hood? We don't have all those strict rules and regulations where everything needs to be stock.

I've driven alongside the po-po countless times, never have I been pulled over, and the 4" downpipe on my supra exited right out behind my passenger wheel. They never seemed to mind :D

There are no idle problems, as long as you plug up the factory holes in the intake tract.

Bottom line is you do not need a catch can. If you live in lock-down land, and are worried about oil pouring out of the bottom of your car, maybe a catch can is for you.

Edited by JDMfantasy
I was at Eastern Creek today and not a drop of oil went into the intake, car performed solidly all day...minus that exhaust gasket...curse that gasket...

Hey, Chris is it??? Saw/met you the other day at Eastern Creek.

The RB26 seems to breathe a little more then the RB20/25, but of course is very engine specific.

If you are looking to modify an engine, i think a catch can tells you a bit about the general health of your engine before you start winding in boost/bigger turbos etc. Pretty cheap and plenty of small reasons why they arent too bad an idea

Running the breather hoses straight under the car is silly, if you happen to be going full bore and have a problem...well i know id love to have hot oil spray all under the car, hell an oil fire from hot oil hitting a red hot dump pipe/exhaust , or even better spinning on the oil ... or having other road users spin on it, you obvioulsy dont happen to know many motorbike riders :P

It isnt hard or expensive to do right, so why not get it right the first time, also saves a film of crud forming over the underside of your car and engine bay, underside of bonnet etc

Consider the oil you are running too. We used to use a Fuchs product in the track car, swapped to Motul of the same spec and now instead of filling up 300ml from a days racing we might get 50ml.

Edited by t01-100

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And also there were for sale scams and the like. For sale posts need piccies, and not having piccies makes it harder to do a driveby scam.
    • And I forgot to add my *** footnote to the above post, which was that the pipework mods would be even more significant than what had to be done for the highflow. So just add that onto the list. Pipework mods are no killer, just made the tasklist longer at a time when extra tasks were not welcome.
    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
×
×
  • Create New...